Paris at Christmas time

Paris at Christmas time

I’ve sweltered on the beach at the Paris Plages in the middle of summer, walked through parks full of flowers in springtime and watched the leaves change colour in autumn, but until now I’ve never seen Paris in winter. So last year I finally put this right with a quick pre-Christmas weekend in the city. And the City of Lights puts on a great show at Christmas – with plenty of festive markets, light displays, ice rinks and funfair rides to keep you busy. Here are some of my picks on what to see in Paris at Christmas time.

The decorations

From the start of December, Paris decks herself out for the festive season. Trees are draped with twinkling lights, decorations are strung across the streets and shop windows are piled high with gifts. Most areas have some sort of Christmas decorations, but some of the most impressive are at Place Vendome and in Montmartre – as well as the over-the-top sparkles along the Champs Elysées, where the trees are covered with lights that change colour every half hour. You’ll also find a huge Christmas tree outside Notre Dame Cathedral, and inside is a beautiful wooden carved nativity scene.

Paris’ big department stores go all out for Christmas with some impressively festive store window displays. They start planning them as soon as the previous year’s are taken down and even have a big celebrity opening night when they’re unveiled each year. You find some of the best at Galeries Lafayette and Printemps (both Boulevard Haussmann, Metro: Chaussée d’Antin), Le Bon Marché (24 Rue de Sèvres, Metro: Sèvres-Babylone) and BHV (52 Rue de Rivoli, Metro: Hôtel de Ville).

Christmas decorations in Paris

Christmas trees at Notre Dame Cathedral and Galeries Lafayette

The Christmas markets

Originally starting in Germany, Christmas markets have spread across Europe to become a festive tradition, and you find them in most cities, Paris included. Grab a cup of vin chaud while you wander around the market stalls housed in little wooden chalets, selling everything from handmade tree decorations and wooden gifts to cheeses from across France and Eiffel Tower shaped biscuits.

There are markets – aka ‘Marchés de Noël’ – held across the city. The biggest are in La Défense, with over 300 stalls (Metro: La Défense), and along the Champs Elysées (Metro: Concorde or Champs Elysées-Clemenceau). There are also smaller neighbourhood markets like in Saint-Germain-des-Prés (Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés), at Montparnasse station (Metro: Montparnasse), in Montmartre (Metro: Abbesses and Anvers) and in Square René Viviani near Notre Dame Cathedral (Metro: Saint-Michel or Cité). Make sure to double check dates and details though – last year we read in several places online about there being a big market at Saint-Sulpice but turned up to find a deserted, empty square!

Paris Christmas markets

Lavender baubles and Eiffel Tower biscuits at Saint-Germain Christmas market

The festivities

There’s a big ice rink outside the Hôtel de Ville – entry is free but it’s €6 to hire skates and there can be big queues. There are also rinks at the Champs-Elysées (€10 adults/€8 under 12s) and Jardins du Trocadero (€6), and a rink with a view on the first floor of the Eiffel Tower (skate hire included with your Tower ticket). For another great view, take a ride in the Place de La Concorde’s Grande Roue – or Big Wheel. It s open every day until midnight from 13 November 2015 to 29 February 2016 and costs €10 (€5 under 10s). From 60 metres up you get a bird’s-eye-view of the Christmas lights along the Champs-Elysées.

Or how about a trip to the funfair? Normally a private collection owned by an antique dealer, the Musee Des Arts Foraings is full of vintage fairground rides and stalls dating back to 1850 and is open to the public from 26 December 2015 to 3 January 2016, 10am–6pm. It’s also free for children to ride on many of the city’s carousels between 19 December 2015 and 4 January 2016.

Ferris wheel at Place de la Concorde, Paris

Ferris wheel at Place de la Concorde

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Paris at Christmas time – On the Luce travel blog


  1. says

    It looks magnificent! I have only visited Paris during the summer, during a 2009 Home Exchange; it was great, and I did love the Paris Plage; but I would love to visit during the Christmas season.

  2. says

    Lucy- I’m so glad you continued this reverie in Paris. One of my favorite memories is of being in the City over a Christmas pre-week. I scheduled a long layover on my way from Baku to Washington DC and stayed at a little hotel near the Louvre. One evening I took a walk in the snow looking for something for dinner. In the air, I could smell foods cooking so I followed the scent to an open aire market near the Tuileries.

    I found a man stirring something fabulous in the largest copper kettle I had ever seen- about 3 feet across. I put together my best imitation of bad French and asked for a serving of whatever this was.

    He gave me a heaping serving of the most wonderful ham, potatoes, and onions in a divinely creamy sauce… in a styrofoam to-go container. All I could think of was how odd this was getting this quality of food in a lowly to-go box. I don’t know whether it tasted so good because I was hungry, the ham was so warm against the snowy cold, this was in Paris, or- maybe all of the above. I look for that flavor every time I am back!

    Great memories! (And yes, by the way, the people were lovely to me, even if it was Paris and I was an American speaking badly in French… miracles do happen at Christmastime!)

    • says

      How fantastic! Paris must look so beautiful in the snow. And that dish sounds so tasty (sounds a lot like tartiflette which you get a lot in the Alps), perfect for the weather! Glad to brong back some good memories.

  3. says

    It looks so gorgeous and festive! I’m planning on going to Paris early next year but I wish I’d had chance to visit in December now and make the most of the festivities. I’ll come back to this if I change my mind next and go next Christmas!

  4. says

    Hi! I am staying over in Paris this year and I’ve heard from numerous people about the mysterious Saint Sulpice Christmas Market and that it simply doesn’t appear. I will investigate that mystery. What was your favourite Christmas market in Paris?

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