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The ancient city of Akrotiri: Santorini’s Pompeii

Ancient city of Akrotiri, Santorini

It might seem like the island of Santorini is wall-to-wall with cliffside whitewashed villages, but south of Oia and Fira you’ll find a different kind of Greek settlement – the ruined city of Akrotiri. Or at least that’s what it’s called now. It was christened Akrotiri after the nearby modern town of the same name, but its real identity is just one of its mysteries. Nicknamed Santorini’s Pompeii, it’s similar in that both were buried in a volcanic eruption, there are a few big differences between them too. The first of which is their age – Pompeii was founded in 600 BC and destroyed in 79 AD, but Akrotiri makes it look young. It was home to the ancient Minoans over 4000 years before Pompeii was set up, and has been preserved just as it would have been in 1500 BC. It’s a window into the life of a distant people – and to a different side of Santorini.

Akrotiri archaeological site

The archaeological building at Akrotiri

Akrotiri started off as a fishing and farming village, growing olives and grains. But because it was positioned on the trade route between Europe and the east, the money flowed in and it grew into a big, prosperous city. It was a democratic place though, with its own parliament and no palaces. People lived in two- and three-storey houses with balconies, underfloor heating, hot and cold running water and proper toilets. They painted elaborate frescoes, made their own wine and crafted pots and sculptures. Amazing when you think this was during the Bronze Age, when people in Britain were living in huts and building stone circles.

Walkways down to Akrotiri

Walkways down to the ruins

But somewhere around 1500 BC, it all went wrong for Akrotiri when the huge volcano Thera erupted and blew the middle right out of Santorini. It was one of the largest volcanic events recorded on Earth, creating a four-mile-wide caldera and sending up an ash cloud 20 miles high. It also set off a 100-metre tsunami that battered Crete’s coastline and reached as far as Egypt. When the eruption finished Akrotiri had been buried in a 200-foot-deep layer of ash and debris and the whole shape of Santorini had been changed for good. Covered with hot lava and piles of ash, the island was abandoned for the next few centuries.

Akrotiri bathtub

An ancient tub

Eventually new settlements grew up on Santorini, but Akrotiri was long forgotten until the 1860s when workers quarrying ash to build the Suez canal dug down and discovered remnants of the old city. They stayed where they were for another hundred years though until excavations finally started on the site in 1967. Since then around 40 buildings have been unearthed but there’s a long way still to go – it’s estimated only a third of the city has been discovered so far and it’ll take another century to excavate it all.

Looking down into the ruins at Akrotiri

Looking down into Akrotiri’s buildings

Now it’s open to visitors, in a big, light and airy building. The ruins need to be covered up as the houses are made of mud bricks so get damaged by water. But things were put on hold at the site in 2005 after the roof of the previous building collapsed and killed a British tourist. It took seven years to repair and reopen the site in this smart new building, made of steel and wood to let just enough light in but keep things cool. Walkways take you around the edge of the city, but what’s ground level for us is roof height in Akrotiri, so it takes a lot of painstakingly digging and removing huge quantities of rock to get down to street level.

An original stone toilet from Akrotiri

A Minoan toilet

The pathway leads down through some of the reconstructed houses, where you can even see an original Minoan toilet and stone bathtub. During the excavations lots of different remnants of people’s everyday lives were uncovered among the buildings. There were a hundreds of pots, from drinking cups up to big storage vessels decorated with geometric patterns, some of which still had remains of olive oil or fish inside. You can see some of them at the site but many have been moved to the archaeological museum in Fira, and the best of Akrotiri’s frescoes are on display in Athens’ National Archaeological Museum.

Pots at Akrotiri

Uncovered pottery

Furniture like beds, chairs and tables have been recreated by pouring plaster into the casts made by the ash, like they did with people’s bodies in Pompeii. But the big difference here is that no human or animal remains were found at Akrotiri. It’s thought that there were probably lots of foreshocks before the big eruption so people had time to pack up and leave, unlike in Pompeii where it all happened so quickly. As it was a rich seafaring city, people probably had easy access to boats which made it easy for them to escape. Though where they went next and why they never came back is another of the mysteries of Akrotiri.

Akrotiri ruins

Among the ruins

The details

Akrotiri is about a 25-minute drive south of Fira. Entrance costs €5 per person. There are a few information boards around the site, but if you want to get more of an insight into the ruins then it’s worth booking a tour or hiring a guide (there are usually a group of them at the entrance if you haven’t pre-booked).

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The ancient city of Akrotiri: Santorini’s Pompeii – On the Luce travel blog

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15 Comments

  • Reply
    restlessjo
    November 18, 2015 at 6:20 pm

    It’s always been a fascinating subject, Lucy. If I ever get back that way I’d like a look. 🙂

    • Reply
      Lucy
      November 18, 2015 at 7:59 pm

      These buried cities are so interesting – and the age of Akrotiri was just mind-boggling!

  • Reply
    Suzanne Jones
    November 20, 2015 at 10:22 pm

    What a fascinating and alternative side to Santorini – I had no idea this existed!

    • Reply
      Lucy
      November 23, 2015 at 1:02 pm

      I read about it somewhere and loved Pompeii and Herculaneum so knew I’d have to go and see this too!

  • Reply
    atravelingb
    November 21, 2015 at 2:51 am

    Very cook, Lucy! I have been to Santorini, but never knew Akrotiri existed. I love this history of it – its crazy to think of how long it does make Pompeii look!

    • Reply
      Lucy
      November 23, 2015 at 1:03 pm

      It’s hard to get your head around huge numbers like 5000 BC! Really interesting place to visit though and a real contrast to the rest of Santorini.

  • Reply
    Daniela Frendo
    November 22, 2015 at 3:11 pm

    Love reading about little-known archaeological sites like this one. I often wonder how many ancient sites have yet to be discovered…

    • Reply
      Lucy
      November 23, 2015 at 1:04 pm

      Yes I’m sure there are hundreds of unknown places around the world just waiting to be found, archaeology must be a fascinating field to work in.

  • Reply
    Vlad
    November 23, 2015 at 1:29 pm

    Looks fascinating! I’m dying to visit Santorini so I’ll make sure to include this on my itinerary when I’ll go there 🙂

    • Reply
      Lucy
      November 23, 2015 at 2:52 pm

      Santorini is great – it is really busy but there’s a lot to see so you can always escape the crowds. Akrotiri wasn’t busy at all, and there’s a cool red beach nearby too.

  • Reply
    aggy87
    November 24, 2015 at 4:55 am

    Woah! Being a fan of Pompeii, I can’t believe I didn’t come here when I was in Santorini. Another reason to come back then. It’s amazing to see that all the ruins after all this time – and to think Pompeii was old!

    • Reply
      Lucy
      November 24, 2015 at 9:30 pm

      It’s such an interesting place – and the age is just incredible, especially when you think how advanced the city seems.

  • Reply
    Sarah
    November 24, 2015 at 1:21 pm

    This is one of my favourite blog posts ever – how had I not heard of this place before?! Thanks for sharing Lucy 🙂

    • Reply
      Lucy
      November 24, 2015 at 9:33 pm

      Thanks Sarah, I was really surprised it wasn’t more well-known (or busy!).

  • Reply
    Amrita Ahuja
    December 17, 2015 at 6:41 am

    Amazing post. Santorini –the name itself brings so many questions to the minds. This article has inspired me to visit Santorini’s ancient city of Akrotiri. I would love to travel there with my friends and unravel the mystery!

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