Travel tales

Exploring Petra: Beyond the Treasury

The Royal Tombs and Roman columns at Petra, Jordan

When you think of Petra, the first thing that probably comes to mind is the Treasury and the famous walk through the narrow corridor of the Siq to get there. But that’s only a tiny fraction of Petra’s huge 60 square kilometre area, and there are so many more caves, temples, mountains and pathways to explore beyond there. You could spent weeks hiking all the tracks around Petra, but for our first day we stuck to the main path along some of the most accessible and spectacular sights in the heart of the old city.

Bedouin musician at Petra, Jordan

Bedouin man playing a rebab

Beyond the Treasury you come to the area called the Outer Siq. Bustling with people, we dodged past stallholders selling jewellery, people offering camel and donkey rides, and overwhelmed looking visitors trying to take it all in. Off to one side an old man sat playing a weird-looking one-stringed musical instrument. We found out later it was called the rebab, or the Arabian fiddle, and is one of the oldest instruments in the Arabian world. The strings are made of horse hair and even with only one string, the man used the bow to bring out a range of notes to make a melancholy, haunting sound.

Street of Facades at Petra, Jordan

The Street of Facades

While most people hurried on to the next big sight, the Theatre, we stopped to explore the Street of Facades. Around 40 tombs cover the hillside here – from huge ornate structures built for rich merchants down to small caves stacked on top of each other for everyone else. Some are really well preserved but others have been worn smooth by the wind and rain. We clambered up into one of the caves to take a better look at the rock. It’s a mixture of golden and pink stone with ripples of white that almost look like fish scales. The range of colours come from the iron oxide in the rock and give Petra its ‘rose red city’ title.

Rocks of Petra, Jordan

Inside one of the caves and details in the rock

Next along the path we passed by the Theatre. Although it looks Roman, it was originally built by the Nabateans around 200 years ago. It was cut out from a huge slab of rock and seated over 3000 people when it was built. There was an orchestra area and a three-storey stage at the time, but no-one knows what sort of performances were put on here. When the Romans took over Petra they added another tier to the top to more than double the capacity. But a lot of the building was destroyed by earthquakes and the stone was looted over the years, so you can only admire it from a distance now.

The Royal Tombs in Petra, Jordan

The Royal Tombs

Downhill from the Theatre the path widens, and overlooking it are the Royal Tombs. They were built for  Nabatean royalty and politicians and are some of the biggest and most impressive tombs in Petra. The Royal Tombs are made up of four different tombs – Urn Tomb, Silk Tomb, Corinthian Tomb and Palace Tomb. The biggest is the Urn Tomb, and we climbed up steps cut into the rock face, up onto the hillside to take a look inside. The tomb itself is just an empty cave after it was gutted to be turned into a church by the Byzantines. But up close that huge frontage towers impressively over you, and looking out from the terrace there are panoramic views across the rest of Petra’s old city.

The Urn Tomb, part of the Royal Tombs at Petra, Jordan

The towering Urn Tomb up close, and its view across Petra

From the Royal Tombs, a paved Roman road leads through the Colonnaded Street to Petra’s city centre. This part of the site has been badly damaged by floods, so you have to imagine how grand it’d have looked with a full row of columns. Part of the triumphal arch is still standing and was guarded by a couple of ‘Roman’ soldiers, defending the city from over-zealous camel riders rather than invaders these days.

The Roman ruins of Petra, Jordan

Looking out over the triumphal arch into Petra’s city centre

Beyond here is the centre of old Petra, home to ruined churches and temples like the Qasr al-Bint, and the old Nabatean baths. You also see a network of paths and tracks, leading off up towards the tombs or into the hills, just calling out to be explored. It’s easy to get sidetracked in Petra and to walk just a bit farther or go into just one more tomb. But with an hour’s walk back to the entrance and the rocks just starting to glow as the sun went down, the rest was going to have to wait.

Camels at Petra, Jordan

Camels waiting to transport weary travellers back to the Treasury

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Exploring Petra: Beyond the Treasury – On the Luce travel blog

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21 Comments

  • Reply
    Gerard
    December 14, 2012 at 3:55 pm

    Thank you for sharing your beautiful pictures and giving a wonderful narration.

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      December 18, 2012 at 12:15 pm

      Thanks, and glad to be able to get across some of the beauty of the place.

  • Reply
    restlessjo
    December 14, 2012 at 9:57 pm

    Love the rock striations, Lucy. I bet you could have just taken shot after shot.

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      December 18, 2012 at 12:14 pm

      I did Jo, it was such a photogenic place I’m still going through them now!

      • Reply
        restlessjo
        December 18, 2012 at 7:11 pm

        I was in touch with an old friend of ours, Lucy. Murray Stewart! He’s on Linked In as a freelance writer. Nice to catch up.

  • Reply
    Photography by Gisele Morgan
    December 15, 2012 at 3:11 pm

    beautiful images and a very enjoyable read ♥

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      December 18, 2012 at 12:16 pm

      Thanks, there was so much to see there you could do with a week of exploring!

  • Reply
    Sammy (@wanderlustsammy)
    December 17, 2012 at 8:25 pm

    Sounds amazing…. Petra has to be on most people’s travel wish lists. And now I have a whole lot more reasons to get there and look around!

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      December 18, 2012 at 12:15 pm

      Thanks, its worth doing a couple of days there – the ticket prices are almost the same for 1 as for 2 or 3 days and it gives you chance to wander around without getting rushed or overwhelmed by it all.

  • Reply
    Travelbunny
    December 18, 2012 at 12:13 pm

    Fabulous images and narrative 🙂

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      December 18, 2012 at 12:16 pm

      Thanks, it was definitely one of my favourite places to take photos of.

  • Reply
    Madhu
    December 28, 2012 at 1:55 pm

    Love your beautiful, crisp photos Lucy. Did you climb up to the monastery?

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      December 28, 2012 at 4:40 pm

      We had a beautiful few days for our trip – and yes we did do the Monastery walk, photos and post in the pipeline!

  • Reply
    Adventure Travel Nick
    December 30, 2012 at 7:35 am

    Fascinating! Just spent a while listening to people playing the rebab on youtube, thanks to your post – very neat stuff!

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      December 30, 2012 at 6:52 pm

      What did you think of the rebab, it’s quite an unusual sound isn’t it? I though it suited the surroundings very well though.

  • Reply
    Rachael
    January 1, 2013 at 8:36 pm

    So much there to explore. We will have to make sure we allow plenty of time.

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      January 1, 2013 at 9:14 pm

      We did two days there plus the night tour and that was just about enough to see the main sights, but if you’re keen on hiking there’s enough to keep you going for a few more days.

  • Reply
    Exploring Petra: The mountainous Monastery | On the Luce
    January 7, 2013 at 12:49 pm

    […] a first day visiting the Treasury and Petra’s other main sites, day two meant it was time to take some of those pathways and go exploring. And one place that […]

  • Reply
    A first-timers guide to Petra | On the Luce
    January 21, 2013 at 12:51 pm

    […] a lift at any other time. The donkeys up to the Monastery and for the hour’s walk from the old city to the Siq at the end of the day are busiest, but there are plenty of them around so you should be […]

  • Reply
    Nancy
    October 29, 2016 at 5:02 am

    Hi Lucy, Did you have a guide to go around the sites in Petra. I am planning on visiting in a month.

    • Reply
      Lucy
      October 30, 2016 at 9:41 am

      Hi Nancy, no we just had a guidebook and wandered around, but there are lots of guides at the visitor’s centre when you go in so you should have no trouble finding one if you do want a guide. Hope you have a great trip!

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