Travel tales

Go east: The wild side of New Zealand’s North Island

New Zealand's East Cape

New Zealand’s North Island is packed with amazing, world-famous sights, from the Bay of Islands and the thermal pools of Rotorua, to Lake Taupo and the Tongariro Crossing. When we were planning the route for our road trip around the island it had to include all of these, but we also wanted to get away from the crowds and see something different. So we decided to head east. The East Cape is the North Island’s lesser-known corner, with unsealed roads, wild coastline, wineries and plenty of Maori culture.

The most popular route around the North Island takes you south from Rotorua towards Taupo. But instead we took Highway 30 east, past volcanic lakes and vivid green fields until we emerged out on the coast at Opotiki. This is the biggest town for a while so a good place to stock up on food (which we didn’t) and petrol (which we did) before heading off on State Highway 35 – aka the Pacific Coast Highway. Like its Californian namesake, this highway hugs the coastline past jagged cliffs and secluded bays.

East Cape road

The wild, unsealed road out to the East Cape Lighthouse

There’s not much in the way of accommodation around here, but before we had to resort to sleeping in the car, we came across Maraehaeko Bay Retreat. Down a steep track off the main road, this backpackers has an idyllic beachfront location. The whole place has a barefoot, Robinson Crusoe vibe with driftwood sculptures and hammocks slung between the trees.

Owner Pihi took us under his wing, sharing his day’s catch of crayfish and tarakihi fish and stash of beers with us while everyone gathered around the campfire to watch the sun go down. In the morning he took my friend Linda out fishing or you could kayak, horse-ride or spot dolphins on a boat trip, but I stuck to collecting shells on the shore. It was such a relaxing place that we were seriously tempted to stick around for a while, but the road was calling onwards.

Maraehako Bay

The beach out the front of Maraehako Bay Retreat

Back on the 35, we took a detour at Te Araroa onto the unsealed road right out onto the edge of the East Cape itself. The track bumped along the gravel past wide windswept beaches and out to the most easterly point of the North Island, and we didn’t see a single other car on the way. At the top of a hill here is the East Cape Lighthouse. I struggled up the 700 steps to the top in a serious headwind, pushed down almost as fast as I could climb, but the panoramic views from the top were worth the effort.

On the main road again, we passed Maori villages with their maraes – sacred areas of land with intricately carved wooden buildings used for religious and social events. This part of New Zealand was made famous in the film Whale Rider, and you can do a tour of the film’s locations and meet their Maori cultural adviser.

East Cape Lighthouse

A Maori carving at the start of the route and the East Cape Lighthouse

We also passed by Tolaga Bay, on a rough coastline which was only accessible by boat for years til the locals built a 600m-long wharf, the longest in New Zealand, before driving the last 90km on to the city of Gisborne. Gisborne is apparently the sunniest spot in New Zealand, and it didn’t disappoint while we were there. The sun also is also great for grape growing, making Gisborne the country’s ‘Chardonnay capital’. There are wineries all around the city where you can do tastings, but as we didn’t have time we did our own unofficial tasting with a few glasses in the harbourside Works Restaurant and Bar while we watched the boats come in. It also turned out to be bonfire night – weirdly celebrated in NZ as well as the UK – and bonfires were lit all along the beachfront, with their twinkling lights stretching for miles.

Gisborne beach

On the beach at Gisborne

Heading onwards from Gisborne, we swapped the 35 for State Highway 2, which leads all the way to Wellington. Following a tip off from our previous night’s hostel, we did a quick detour onto the Mahia Peninsula. Originally an island but now connected the mainland by a sandbar, it’s surrounded by sandy coves and a turquoise sea. It’s a popular holiday spot with good surfing and diving, but outside of peak season we had the beaches almost to ourselves. The winding roads led us to Cafe Mahia for a stop-off for coffee and cake with a spectacular view across the peninsula.

Mahia Peninsula

Windy roads around the Mahia Peninsula

And from there it was only a couple of hundred kilometres on to the end of the East Cape route – the city of Napier. Most of the city was destroyed in an earthquake in 1931 and it was rebuilt in Art Deco style. A lot of the buildings still remain and you can do walks and tours around them with the city’s Art Deco Trust. Then from Napier you can head south to Wellington or do what we did and rejoin the crowds in Taupo to the north – back on the beaten track but having had a taste of New Zealand’s wilder side.

The details

Travelling to New Zealand

Other than Australians, all visitors to New Zealand need to obtain a visa before you travel. Visitors from the UK, USA, Europe and many other countries can apply for the NZeTA visa for New Zealand (New Zealand Electronic Travel Authority) online, which costs £49.95 per person. The NZeTA is valid for two years, with multiple visits permitted and a maximum length of stay of three months. The visa is sent to you electronically once it’s approved (normally within five days).

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Go east: The wild side of New Zealand’s North Island – On the Luce travel blog

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  • Reply
    June 28, 2012 at 11:43 pm

    It looks stunning! Very odd that they also celebrate Bonfire Night! I guess where there’s an excuse for a party… I’ve celebrated ANZAC day more than once in the UK!

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      June 29, 2012 at 9:59 am

      Yes I though the whole Guy Fawkes thing was just a British one but apparently not – probably a good excuse for a party as you say!

  • Reply
    Lindsay Carreiro
    June 29, 2012 at 12:45 am

    Love the beach picture!

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      June 29, 2012 at 10:00 am

      Thanks, it reminded me of a beach resort somewhere in Asia, a really beautiful and relaxing place.

  • Reply
    June 29, 2012 at 6:06 am

    Haven’t been yet, but it NZ is on the cards! Gorgeous photos

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      June 29, 2012 at 10:02 am

      Thanks, it’s a great place to take photos – lots of stunning scenery and amazing colours, hope you manage to make it out sometime!

  • Reply
    Ship's Cook
    June 29, 2012 at 7:49 am

    Must get to NZ sometime, looks amazing

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      June 29, 2012 at 10:03 am

      It’s one of my favourite countries, so much to see and great food and drink too (always important!).

  • Reply
    June 29, 2012 at 10:51 am

    Lovely and interesting post. I visited NZ in 1989. I was on my own and using public transport so I only managed Bay of Islands, Aukland area, Lake Taupo and Rotorua on the North Island (a bit more on theSouth). I hope to go back one day and perhaps follow in your footsteps.

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      June 29, 2012 at 11:25 am

      I was on my own too and don’t drive so was planning a similar route to you, but met a girl in a dorm room in Auckland who’d hired a car for a couple of weeks so ended up travelling with her – funny how things work out. Saw a lot in 6 weeks but managed to miss the Bay of Islands so I’ve an excuse to go back!

  • Reply
    June 29, 2012 at 4:06 pm

    I’m embarrassed to say that’s one part of NZ I don’t know very well – and I’m a Kiwi!

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      June 29, 2012 at 4:14 pm

      It’s always the way with your home country, its the last place you really explore – there are loads of places in the UK I’ve yet to get to but people who are only travelling here for a couple of weeks manage to fit in!

      • Hilary
        August 29, 2020 at 9:56 am

        Me also but am looking at visiting in a couple of weeks if Corid permits. Am a Kiwi and have visited all over the world and lived in the UK. was going there again this year but Covid popped up and put paid to that. The reason I need to see the one part of New Zealand I’ve never seen.

  • Reply
    Karen Johnson
    July 1, 2012 at 8:35 pm

    Great post and photos!

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      July 1, 2012 at 9:09 pm

      Thanks, I’ve been enjoying finally getting round to writing up my New Zealand trip!

  • Reply
    July 3, 2012 at 6:38 am

    This is on the top of the list of places I missed! Amazing how big that list is when I spent a month there, on the go everyday!

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      July 3, 2012 at 11:37 am

      I had six weeks there but still have a list of things I missed – the Bay of Islands, Coromandel. Gives me a good excuse to go back sometime though!

  • Reply
    July 4, 2012 at 5:48 pm

    Your photos capture the beauty of that landscape really well. NZ is very high on our bucket list, but then so are several other places 🙁

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      July 4, 2012 at 9:27 pm

      Thanks Madhu, hope you manage to visit NZ one day, but I know the problem of too long a wish list and not enough time!

  • Reply
    T.W. Anderson (@MarginalBounds)
    July 13, 2012 at 2:51 pm

    New Zealand is one of those places that’s on my list, but I still haven’t managed to. I’m really hoping to head that way in 2015, so still a couple of years out. In either case….breathtaking shots and more motivation for me to get over there to that part of the world 🙂

    I really want to take a road-trip in particular and explore the coastal highways, and you’ve got several shots that are awe-inspiring 🙂 Great stuff!

  • Reply
    August 13, 2012 at 9:39 pm

    Making it worse! I don’t know how I managed to miss these posts Lucy – it’s just stunning. Great shot at Gisborne

  • Reply
    June 11, 2013 at 5:06 am

    So glad that you made the effort to explore some of NZ’s more untouched parts. They are truly stunning and you have taken some amazing photographs that captures that! Hopefully you will be able to return and venture up North too!

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      June 11, 2013 at 4:53 pm

      Thanks, i loved NZ and hope to make it back sometime, six weeks wasn’t enough to see it all!

  • Reply
    November 18, 2014 at 10:23 am

    Jordan, NZ are on our wishlist! The locations look stunning and your travel tips are quite practical!

    • Reply
      November 20, 2014 at 12:01 pm

      Thanks so much, hope you get to visit them both one day!

  • Reply
    August 13, 2015 at 9:08 am

    Lovely pictures! and a good travel tip too. Wish I’d known about East Cape when I visited New Zealand last.

  • Reply
    Samuel Birch
    December 4, 2019 at 11:37 am

    Great blog!
    New Zealand is a fantastic place and a better option rather than going to places where you do not feel comfortable. I love the pictures and lovely views.
    Thank for sharing!

    • Reply
      December 12, 2019 at 9:37 am

      You’re very welcome – loved NZ!

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