I’ve been on a few winery tours and they usually follow the same format – a tour of the cellars, a talk about how the wine is made and a tasting – so was expecting more of the same at Pommery Champagne house. But what we got was altogether more surreal. It started off normally, with a descent down 116 lamp-lit stairs into the cellars as we were taken through tall chalk caves carved by Roman slaves. But as well as stacks of bottles, they were also filled with modern art installations – from video and sculpture to light and sound exhibits – which change every few months. They ranged from the odd (an orchestra of musical instruments that played themselves and a huge illuminated cone stretching upwards) to the totally bizarre (a line of toe-tapping empty Wellington boots and a group of singing skulls). We probably could have done with a few tasting samples first and I can’t say I learnt a lot about Champagne, but it’s one I won’t forget.