It’s the last of our five game drives in Balule Game Reserve, just after our final coffee stop and at the end of 15 hours out in the bush on safari in South Africa. We’ve been weaving our way through a maze of dusty red paths for the last couple of hours. Past straggly looking trees, across dried-up river beds and along rocky tracks. The landscape seems so dry and empty that it’s hard to believe anything lives there, but you can hear sounds of life all around you. There’s the constant buzzing of insects, the call of birds and the rustle of something unseen in the undergrowth. In the last few days we’ve seen giraffes, zebras, buffalo, hippos, hyenas, a black rhino and a leopard. But no lions and no elephants – and this was our last chance.

Giraffe and zebra
As we twist and turn our way through the rough tracks I keep thinking that we’ve been here before; that I recognise that tree or that termite mound or that bend in the road. But in reality we could be circling the same route all day and I would have no idea. Our eyes are constantly flicking around from one side to the other, scanning the bush for any sign of movement. But if it’s there then we’re too slow to see it.

Hippos in Olifants River
Our guide Eric is our eyes, his senses attuned to any sight or sound of the park’s wildlife. He can tell by their tracks how long ago they were here and which way they were heading, like he can speak their secret language. A tree isn’t just a tree it’s an elephant’s scratching post, a footprint isn’t just a footprint it’s a signpost. Someone asks him how long it’s taken to learn his way around the park’s roads, but he says it’s more like learning to read the landscape – how to navigate from the angle of the sun or to know which direction you’re facing by the position of birds’ nests in the trees. If you can do that you’ll never get lost.

Our ride
After hours of sitting quietly and watching you go into an almost trance-like state. Your mind and body are both so still it feels like you’ve powered down. But then the radio crackles into life and suddenly we’re off. Eric transforms into a rally driver in the flick of a switch, swerving around corners, sliding across sandy paths and bumping along uneven roads. We cling onto our hats and the frame of the jeep, and can’t stop laughing as we try not to get bounced out of our seats. That previously calm, meditative state has been injected with a dose of adrenalin. We’re all on high alert, our senses sharper and our attention focused.

Finally a lion
But as ever it’s Eric who spots him first as we slide to a stop alongside another jeep – a male lion with a golden mane framed with black. There’s a sharp intake of breath and a sudden flurry of camera clicks as it sinks in that we’ve finally seen a lion, just when we thought it wasn’t going to happen. He looks over from a hundred metres away then just carries on walking. Eric works out which way he’s heading and repositions the jeep so he passes just in front of us. He stops to look and listen to what’s going on around him, and at one point it feels like he’s looking me right in the eye. But it’s not us that he’s interested in.

You looking at me?
As he passes by and heads off into the depths of the bush we spot a lioness in the distance doing the same looking and listening routine. You feel like shouting ‘he’s over there!’, but you keep quiet and just let them go, hoping that they’ll manage to find each other eventually. And back in the jeep we all let out all that breath we didn’t realise we had been holding in, the adrenalin rush fades, Eric drives on and it’s back to searching and waiting and watching, because you never know what you might see next.
28 Comments
Darlene
January 25, 2017 at 5:40 pmWhat an incredible experience!
Lucy
January 25, 2017 at 6:23 pmThanks Darlene, it was definitely one I won’t forget.
Bama
January 26, 2017 at 3:01 amI’ve read more than once that when someone was doing a safari in Africa, usually he/she wouldn’t see the animal he/she wanted to see the most until the very last day. I guess it teaches us to be patient and to always have hope. Such an amazing experience you had, Lucy!
Lucy
January 27, 2017 at 12:24 pmYes they do make us wait (not my favourite thing to do!). But I guess all the waiting and hoping makes it extra special when it does happen.
Ellenor Davis
January 26, 2017 at 5:26 pmWow amazing article and photos. Thanks for sharing us this amazing safari story with us.
Lucy
January 27, 2017 at 12:25 pmThanks so much, it was a really magical experience to have!
Nicola
January 26, 2017 at 7:08 pmThis is such a nicely written post. I completely remember this experience from when I went on safari. On the first day I think the most exciting thing we had seen was a dung beetle, then suddenly there was a herd of elephants! I’m very jealous that you saw a leopard, I’d have loved to have seen one.
Lucy
January 27, 2017 at 12:26 pmThanks – I wrote it straight after it happened as I wanted to capture exactly what it felt like, so reading it back brings back lots of great memories. Unfortunately no good leopard pics as it was just after it’d gone dark but still lovely to see one.
travelingaddress
January 26, 2017 at 7:11 pmGreat experience and happy your patience was rewarded!
Lucy
January 27, 2017 at 12:28 pmThanks, it was a wonderful thing to see!
John Vogle
January 26, 2017 at 10:58 pmI recently booked a safari. There really are lions that just walk-up to the vehicle as if it were nothing. I’m very glad I used a travel agent. I don’t know how i could have managed to navigate such a strange and exotic land without the aid of an expert. The photos are really good. Cheers!
Lucy
January 27, 2017 at 12:29 pmThanks glad you liked it! I think it depends where you’re going but I found South Africa very easy to arrange yourself if you’re travelling independently (more tips to come!).
aeparker81
January 27, 2017 at 11:32 amWow – what a treat! Glad you did that final game drive, what beautiful animals! We had a day chasing wild dogs in South Africa – there are apparently rare and our guide had his crackly radio and other guides chatting in. We saw loads – the guides were as excited as if it had been the big 5! And were non-plussed when we saw giraffe!
Lucy
January 27, 2017 at 12:31 pmIt’s strange to think that spotting lions and elephants is someone’s job and they can get as blasé about it as anyone does with their work sometimes!
Charlotte
January 27, 2017 at 1:01 pmAmazing pictures! We’re off to Kruger in April, can’t wait 🙂 Interested to know what kind of camera / lens you were using…. I’m wondering whether I “have to” buy some new kit!
Lucy
January 27, 2017 at 1:32 pmHi, I used a Nikon D5000 which I’ve had for years, with a 55-200 zoom lens – I picked up a second-hand one for another trip a couple of years ago for £100 (it’s not brilliant in low light but found it worked really well in daytime). It was definitely worth having a zoom for the wildlife shots. Have got a packing post coming up with some more tips soon which might be useful too.
Jaillan Yehia
January 27, 2017 at 3:07 pmSafari is the most wonderful experience isn’t it, I also chased wild dogs and was in awe of them – would you believe my guide was actually called Patience – she was the first black female ranger there, very inspiring. Your pictures are wonderful I also got a zoom lens for my safari and it was well worth every penny.
Lucy
January 30, 2017 at 10:56 amThe zoom lens made so much difference, even without splashing out on anything too fancy. I’ve definitely got the safari bug now and it won’t be my last!
Alison Newberry
January 27, 2017 at 4:14 pmLovely shots, Lucy! I am glad your patience paid off, and you were able to spot a lion, and a male one at that. They are magnificent creatures, aren’t they? Going on safari has to be one of my very favorite experiences. We are hoping to go back to South Africa at the end of this year, and your post already has me super excited! 🙂
Lucy
January 30, 2017 at 10:57 amThanks Alison! Yes there are such wonderful creatures to see in the wild, so graceful and powerful. Hope you enjoy your trip back to South Africa – I’m already trying to work out when I can get back there!
Thomas
January 27, 2017 at 6:23 pmWonderful pictures. NIce move with the black/white Zebra pic :-).
Strange jeep with no roof and scouting seat in the front. Not a good place when the lions come…
Lucy
January 30, 2017 at 10:58 amThanks. The lions we saw were very unbothered by us, but I’m sure they have precautions in case they need them!
alison abbott
January 28, 2017 at 12:54 amLove your writing in this story Lucy. I really felt like I was right alongside you in the jeep. What an incredible experience it must have been.
Lucy
January 30, 2017 at 11:05 amThanks Alison, it was a wonderful experience to have!
Suzanne Jones
January 30, 2017 at 1:17 amWhat a fabulous experience – I was almost holding my breath as I read just waiting for something amazing to happen! So glad your patience paid off 🙂
Lucy
January 30, 2017 at 11:25 amThank you, yes it was amazing when all the watching and waiting was worth it and the lion appeared!
atravelingb
February 9, 2017 at 3:26 pmThis brings back the fondest of memories. There is nothing quite like safari! I remember thinking as we were leaving that I wish we were staying for another week. It brings out patience, but also a sense of peacefulness and calm (strange for the wild I know). Looking forward to reading more about your trip!
Lucy
February 10, 2017 at 10:21 amIt really is such a unique experience! I think is has to be the most peaceful I’ve been for a long time.