Discover the Promenade Plantée in Paris (also known as the Coulée Verte René-Dumont) – the world’s first elevated urban park, which runs along a former derelict railway line across eastern Paris.
* This site contains affiliate links, where I get a small commission from purchases at no extra cost to you.
New York might have its famous High Line elevated park on a former railway line in Manhattan, but Paris got there first back in 1993 with the Promenade Plantée. Stretching for almost five kilometres across the 12th arrondissement, this narrow raised park follows the route of the old Vincennes railway line, which was abandoned in the 1960s.
With colourful flowers, sculptures and water features, it’s a secret garden hidden above the city that’s popular with walkers, dog owners, joggers and picnickers. It’s also one of my favourite alternative spots in Paris to get away from the crowds and stroll among the trees. But how did it come to be built, and how can you visit the Promenade Plantée?
The history of the Promenade Plantée
The Promenade Plantée was built on the route of the former Vincennes railway line. This steam train line opened in 1859 and ran from the now-closed Gare de la Bastille train station through Vincennes to Verneuil-l’Étang, a commune southeast of Paris.
When the route was closed down in 1969, the section beyond Vincennes was incorporated into the RER network. But the section closest to Paris was abandoned. Ten years on it had turned into an eyesore, with overgrown tracks and crumbling viaducts. When the area started to be renovated, the old railway line was scheduled for demolition.
But architects Jacques Vergely and Philippe Mathieux came up with the idea of turning it into a raised park. It was the first project in the world to repurpose elevated railway lines into an urban garden. Many Parisians thought it was a waste of money – not unlike their original response to the Eiffel Tower. But, like the tower, they’ve grown to love it.
The Promenade Plantée – ‘planted walkway’ – was inaugurated in 1993. And although that name is still used, you’ll often see it signposted as the Coulée Verte René-Dumont. It was officially renamed in 2013 after a French agronomist, economist and environmentalist.
Walking the Promenade Plantée
The Promenade Plantée starts just south of the Opéra Bastille and winds through the 12th arrondissement for just under 5km, ending near the Bois de Vincennes.
At the start, steps lead up to the park from Avenue Daumesnil, above a series of red-brick vaulted archways called the Viaduc des Arts. As part of the redevelopment project these 10-metre-tall arches under the old railway tracks were restored and renovated. They’re now glass-fronted shops and galleries, which celebrate art and crafts made in the area.
Resident artisans have to do the majority of their work on site, which ranges from restoring artworks and designing jewellery to hand-making musical instruments. You can watch them at work, pick up unique gifts, or just stop for a drink in one of the cafés.
From ground level it’s easy to forget that the park is above you. The first section of the Promenade Plantée runs above the viaduct for around 1.5 km and is lined with trees and plants – towering bamboo, arches of fragrant roses, wisteria, cherry and maple trees.
Mixed in among them are archways, benches, planters and narrow ponds. There are also three pieces by urban art Illustrator Caroline Laguerre, whose colourful frescoes decorate seating alcoves on the side of the 12th arrondissement police station.
The Promenade Plantée gives you a different perspective on the city – looking down on passers by and up at the detailing on the surrounding buildings. Architectural features along the route range from the 1800s to Art Deco to modern. Though sometimes the trees block out the city entirely and you can almost forget where you are.
At the end of the viaduct a modern building splits in two with the walkway in between, before it heads down into the Jardin de Reuilly. This used to be an old freight station but now has a big lawn area for picnics, crossed by an arching metal and wood footbridge. There’s also a café, and it’s edged by walkways and terraces lined with sculptures.
From the Jardin de Reuilly the route descends to street level, and walkers are joined by cyclists. It runs through modern buildings until you pass under a railway tunnel and back into parkland. Here you’re below the level of the surrounding streets in a railway cutting, with a parallel cycle route through a canopy of trees and ivy-covered tunnels.
At the end of the route a metal spiral staircase leads up to Boulevard Carnot, where you can walk to the Bois de Vincennes – a huge park covering almost 1000-hectares of land. It was created by Napoleon III and has a zoo, arboretum, botanical garden and four lakes.
The Promenade Plantée also intersects with the Petite Ceinture at Square Charles Péguy. This was a steam railway line which ran around Paris from 1862 until 1934. There’s a 1.7km-long accessible section of tracks and tunnels if you want to explore more.
For years, Paris’ Promenade Plantée was the only elevated parkway in the world but the idea has spread, not just to New York’s High Line but also to Chicago, Philadelphia and Manchester. But the original is well worth a visit, whether you are looking for free things to do in Paris, want to escape the crowds, or just see a different side of Parisian life.
The details
How to get to the Promenade Plantée
There are several different access points onto the Promenade Plantée. The main entrance is south of Bastille, where you’ll find the nearest Métro station (Lines 1, 5 and 8).
From the Place de la Bastille, pass the Opéra Bastille and head south along Rue du Lyon for 400 metres. Then when you reach Avenue Daumesnil, there’s a staircase on the left just before the start of the Viaduc des Arts. There’s also an accessible ramp onto the promenade by the Jardin de Reuilly and several lifts (though they’re not often working).
If you’re walking right to the end of the route, the closest Métro stations are at Porte de Vincennes (Line 1), Bel-Air (Line 6) and Porte Dorée (Line 8).
Map of the Promenade Plantée route
The best time to visit the Promenade Plantée
I’ve walked the Promenade Plantée at different times of year and each has their pros and cons. In spring and summer the flowers are blooming – by the end of summer you’re almost enclosed in a lush forest of leaves. Autumn’s colours are beautiful, and winter is the quietest and the best time to see the architectural detail on surrounding buildings.
Promenade Plantée opening hours
The Promenade Plantée is closed at night and the gates are locked. Opening times vary through the year, depending on what time the sun sets. Hours range from 7am (8am at weekends) until 9.30pm in summer to 8am (9am at weekends) until 5.45pm in winter. You can check current hours on signs on the gates and the Paris municipal website.
Save for later
