One of my reasons for wanting to come back to Morocco was the country’s food. Memories of tagines, almond pastries, fresh herb salads and mint tea stayed with me over the eight years since my last trip. And although I’ve tried recreating the flavours back at home, they’ve never been quite the same. So as soon as I decided to come back I knew I had to learn to do it properly this time. The L’Atelier Madada Moroccan cookery school in Essaouira came highly recommended, so we signed up for a half-day class. Attached to the swanky Madada Mogador hotel, classes take place under the arches of a former almond factory, converted into a modern kitchen where groups of up to eight people learn to cook a two-course meal.
Read more: Souks and sunsets – Things to do in Essaouira, Morocco

Mona showing us how mint tea should be made
Classes are run by Mona, the latest in a long lineage of dadas – female chefs who worked as private cooks for rich families in the past and run the kitchens in many of the best riads today. She was assisted by Alison, a Brit who married a Berber man and moved out to Morocco, and now acts as a translator for the bilingual cookery school. Normally whoever books onto the class first gets to choose the menu, so as we left it a bit late we were beaten to it by our classmates, a French family. Luckily they had excellent taste and went for a classic tagine – and one of my favourites – chicken with preserved lemon and olives.

Piles of mint tea in the spice souks
But before we got to the food, the class started off with a lesson in how to make the most Moroccan of drinks – mint tea. Now I love mint tea and drink litres of it, but have never managed to get it to taste quite right, so I was watching intently. It turns out it’s all in the tea – and the sugar. Mona started off by adding a spoonful of gunpowder green tea (rather than normal black tea) to the teapot. This is boiled up and then the first glass is poured away to get rid of any dust and dirt. Then you add a bunch of fresh mint leaves and more water and boil it up again, adding as much sugar as you like (which is a lot if you’re Moroccan). Once it’s brewed you pour the tea into small glasses, lifting the teapot up high so the tea aerates as it pours.

Tagines cooking (on the hob not in the oven!)
Fortified with a few glasses of tea, we set to work. As well as the tagine we were also making briouats – triangular parcels made with thin pastry and filled with meat or cheese and vegetables. We started by finely grating courgette and carrots and chopping onions for the filling. I cook a lot and think I’m pretty competent with a kitchen knife, but Mona’s got strict standards. She had us chopping those onions until they were almost like a paste. And that was only the start of the chopping – next up was the marinade for the tagine, a mixture of onion, garlic, parsley and coriander. This was rubbed all into chicken legs and wings, along with a blend of spices and a good glug of olive oil, and the tagine was ready to cook.

Folding the briouats up tightly
In many recipes tagines get cooked in the oven, but this isn’t the Moroccan way to do it. Mona explained they should be cooked on the hob, using a plain earthenware tagine (those pretty painted ones are more for decoration than cooking) and a thin sheet of metal to diffuse the heat. This way the heat comes from below and the steam rises up to cook the food inside. While the tagines cooked we mixed up the fillings for the briouats, one with the vegetables and the other with goats cheese and mint. The pastry used to wrap them is called brick or warqa and is paper-thin, like filo or a spring roll wrapper. The pastry is cut into long strips, a dollop of filling is added and they are folded corner-to-corner to make a triangle – under Mona’s watchful eye to make sure they are tight enough that the filling won’t ooze out as they cook.

Said’s special ras el-hanout blends
With the brouiats ready for the oven, Alison took us out into the spice souks where we met stallholder Said. He filled us in on the secrets of the herbs and spices used in Moroccan cookery – over tea of course. This was different to the usual mint though, instead we tried his ‘Royal Tea’, made with 15 different herbs and spices. He also told us all about ras el-hanout – the spice blend that makes up the heart of a tagine. I always thought this was a particular mix of spices, but actually it just means ‘head of the shop’ and every stallholder has their own individual recipe. There can be over 30 different spices included, though those rose petals you sometimes get in the versions back home are definitely not part of it. Said had separate blends for chicken, red meat, fish and couscous dishes, each with a different vivid colour and smell.

My finished (only slightly leaky) briouats
Back at L’Atelier, Mona had added the finishing touches to our tagines while we were away – a handful of green olives and slices of preserved lemon. In the luxurious dining room our brouiats were served up first, only slightly leaky (sorry Mona) but crispy and light. Then came the grand tagine unveiling, with the domed lid whipped off to reveal a bubbling dish steaming with delicious smells. The tender chicken fell off the bone and the herbs had formed a crust, thanks to all that fine chopping, to be mopped up with fresh bread (never couscous, which is a separate dish rather than an accompaniment). It was as good as any tagine I’d had in a restaurant. And armed with L’Atelier’s recipes and Said’s spice blends, back home it tastes just as great.

Delicious chicken tagine with preserved lemons and olives
The details
L’Atelier Madada run Moroccan cookery workshops each day from 10.30am–3pm, costing 500 MAD (approx £38) per person. They also run afternoon oriental pastry workshops from 3.30pm–5pm for 220 MAD/£17. It’s a good idea to book in advance (not least so you get to choose the menu).
49 Comments
Jennifer Grainger
April 10, 2014 at 10:32 amHi Lucy are you in Morocco now? Cheers Jenn
Lucy Dodsworth
April 10, 2014 at 10:37 amHi Jenn, no I am back home now – was there a couple of weeks ago and just catching up on all the posts about the trip now.
Tricia A. Mitchell
April 10, 2014 at 11:19 amLucy, looks as though you had a fantastic day with fellow foodies, and you’ve given me incentive to dust off my tajines and whip something up. Having been to Fes & Marrakech, I loved watching the art of making Moroccan Mint Tea, especially how the server lifted the silver teapot high above the colorful glasses to pour it. How long were you in Morocco, and what other spots did you visit?
Lucy Dodsworth
April 10, 2014 at 11:42 amThanks Tricia, it was a really interesting day – the tea pouring is very impressive, you do need a steady hand though! We were in Morocco for a week this time, mainly Essaouira but with a couple of days in Marrakech. I was there a bit longer last time so travelled more widely (Fes, Atlas Mountains, Ourzazate, Meknes, Asilah). Lovely to be back though, very much enjoyed Essaouira so won’t leave it so long next time.
Tricia A. Mitchell
April 10, 2014 at 12:01 pmSounds like you’ve travelled far and wide in Morocco. In addition to seeing Essaouira and Ourzazate, I’d love to do an overnight stay in the Sahara. Such an exotic country with a rich culture.
wakeorsleep
April 10, 2014 at 11:33 amI’m so in love with briouats, and it’s so hard to find decent Moroccan food now that I’m back home! Very jealous of your cookery class, the food looks amazing.
Lucy Dodsworth
April 10, 2014 at 11:44 amIt was great – I’d have happily spent a few days there learning to make lots of different dishes. It’s been lovely to be able to recreate at least a few of the flavours though.
Jacqueline
April 10, 2014 at 12:49 pmThat sounds wonderful. I love cooking and love the Moroccan food I have had in the UK. Never been to Morocco but would love to go.
Lucy Dodsworth
April 10, 2014 at 1:03 pmThanks Jacqueline, Moroccan food is great – and it’s a good place for a short break from the UK as it’s not too long a flight.
Dinner Bank
April 10, 2014 at 1:09 pmThanks for a great post! 🙂 I also love the moroccon kitchen soooo much and Im greatful as I have my husband is from there 🙂 And here we cook a lot pure moroccon dishes, so take a moment and visite my blogg and find out 🙂
Lucy Dodsworth
April 11, 2014 at 10:26 amSounds great – I will definitely check out some of your recipes and try out some more Moroccan dishes!
Darlene
April 10, 2014 at 2:32 pmMy favourite food as well. What a great experience to learn to cook it by the locals!
Lucy Dodsworth
April 11, 2014 at 10:26 amThanks Darlene, it was a really good day, very informative but lots of fun too.
Tim
April 10, 2014 at 5:44 pmI have always wondered how a tangine actually worked to create such delicious dishes. Obviously, me, not a big cooking expert but do love to eat and have been known to take a class or two.
Lucy Dodsworth
April 11, 2014 at 10:27 amI’ve always cooked them in the oven when I’ve tried it at home so was doing it totally wrong! I’ve done cooking classes in Thailand and Vietnam too and it’s a fab way of bringing home a bit of the holiday.
Laura
April 10, 2014 at 8:13 pmI have been mildly obsessed with Moroccan mint tea ever since I visited a few years ago – I think it would be so cool to learn how to make it! Sounds like a great experience.
Lucy Dodsworth
April 11, 2014 at 10:28 amI just love the mint tea – though having seen how much sugar goes in it’s probably not the best thing to be drinking tons of every day!
Suzanne Courtney
April 11, 2014 at 1:04 amI love Moroccan food and the menu you prepared looks delicious. Must be hard getting that mint tea into those tiny glasses from such a great height – a steady hand required!
Lucy Dodsworth
April 11, 2014 at 10:29 amThat’s what I thought too – don’t think my hand would be steady enough!
Mani (A New Life Wandering)
April 11, 2014 at 2:44 amyum!
Lucy Dodsworth
April 11, 2014 at 10:30 amIt all tasted even better than it looks too!
Lauren @ Peaks and Passports
April 11, 2014 at 2:58 amNow I’m hungry 🙂 This sounds like a blast!
Lucy Dodsworth
April 11, 2014 at 10:29 amWriting it made me so hungry too!
Aggy (@dewtraveller)
April 11, 2014 at 2:06 pmI am drooling as I’m reading this post. Food is an amazing way to connect with a place, learning to cook it with a local however will probably give you a much stronger bond to the place. I’m a huge fan of mint tea by the way, should probably pop over to Morocco to have the “real deal”
Lucy Dodsworth
April 16, 2014 at 2:28 pmYou should! Mint tea in Morocco is definitely different to anywhere else I have ever tasted it.
Agness
April 12, 2014 at 2:56 amSomeone said fresh salad and almond pastries? I love this place already!! 😀
Lucy Dodsworth
April 16, 2014 at 2:29 pmThose almond pastries are so delicious – if I go back I’ll do the patisserie afternoon course for sure!
Heather on her travels
April 12, 2014 at 9:02 pmI can almost smell the aromas coming off that chicken with lemons – a dish we also tried in Marrakech
Lucy Dodsworth
April 16, 2014 at 2:29 pmI think that’s one of my favourite Moroccan dishes, such a classic.
Pacha
April 15, 2014 at 8:07 amThank you Lucy and Congratulations for this well written article.
We’re glad you enjoyed the time you spent with us in Essaouira.
Pacha, from l’Atelier Madada.
Lucy Dodsworth
April 16, 2014 at 2:30 pmThanks so much Pacha, we had a really great day and hope to be back again someday!
swo8
April 16, 2014 at 1:11 amHi Lucy,
Any chance you would put out a recipe or two? The food looks so good.
Leslie
Lucy Dodsworth
April 16, 2014 at 2:30 pmHi Leslie, if you check out the Facebook page for L’Atelier Madada they post lots of recipes up there, including the two we made! https://www.facebook.com/lateliermadada
swo8
April 16, 2014 at 4:28 pmWell thank you very much. I’ll do that.
Leslie
Cathy Sweeneyc
April 16, 2014 at 9:38 pmLooks like an awesome experience from start to finish. It’s probably a safe bet that the French will choose a wonderful menu. 🙂 I’ve not tried Moroccan dishes anywhere, but am totally motivated to so now.
Lucy Dodsworth
April 17, 2014 at 10:30 pmThanks, it was interesting to learn about the background to the dishes as well as how to make them, definitely a highlight of my Morocco trip!
A Crafty Traveler
April 18, 2014 at 11:01 amThat looks amazing!
Lucy Dodsworth
April 18, 2014 at 7:53 pmIt was great – I’ve been wanting to do a Moroccan cookery class for years and so glad to do it finally!
Monica Suma (@MonicaSuma)
April 18, 2014 at 10:28 pmLove tagines. One of my favorite cuisines in the world!
Lucy Dodsworth
April 20, 2014 at 8:49 pmMine too – they’re usually so simple to cook back home too!
restlessjo
April 25, 2014 at 8:11 amThat’s it then, Lucy! I’m inviting myself for tea 🙂
Have a happy weekend!
Lucy Dodsworth
April 25, 2014 at 10:57 amIf you’re ever in Cheltenham Jo, you’re very welcome! Have a lovely weekend too.
shannon smith
May 6, 2014 at 5:35 pmI just returned from a cooking adventure in Morocco. The cooking class at L’Atelier Madada, Essaouira was a highlight! Thank you for writing about the experience in such an eloquent manner. I could not have expressed it better myself. I look forward to enjoying more from your blog in the future!
Lucy Dodsworth
May 7, 2014 at 10:02 amThat’s great – glad you enjoyed the article and the class, I’ve made my tagine at least once a week since I got back I loved it so much! Hope to get back there sometime and do another class.
Pola (JettingAround) (@jettingaround)
May 10, 2014 at 1:03 amTaking cooking classes while traveling is one of my favorite activities! You can have a great time, learn so much, and often eat better stuff than at some restaurants.
Good job on the briouats! Your post makes me want to find a Moroccan restaurant in Chicago, there must be one…
Lucy Dodsworth
May 13, 2014 at 9:22 pmI love cookery classes too, it’s such a good way of bringing your travels home with you – we don’t have a Moroccan restaurant close by so it’s as close as I’ll get!
The Vagabond Baker
May 5, 2015 at 11:15 amOoo, I want to make briouats, they sound delicious! Think I’d have to get my little choppy machine out for the onions though: like a paste? my eyes would be streaming by then!
Lucy
May 6, 2015 at 8:44 pmThe briouats were a bit wasted on me because of the gluten but everyone else said they were lovely (and the filling without the pastry was very tasty!). Still make the tagine though – chef Mona said the onions get a bit bruised in a chopper but they still tasted ok to me and a lot less pain!
The Vagabond Baker
May 7, 2015 at 10:13 amyum! I’ve got a hand chopper that’s a bit like a tiny food processor, it’s really cool! I don’t care if the onion gets bruised! 😉