Explore Edinburgh’s most elegant neighbourhood on this free self-guided New Town walking tour, featuring Georgian squares, gardens, galleries and museums – with map and directions included.
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With its Georgian townhouses, garden squares and wide boulevards, Edinburgh’s New Town couldn’t be more different to the Old Town – and it’s thanks to a young architect called James Craig. In 1766, he set out his vision for the New Town, based on principles of order and symmetry in contrast to the overcrowded, chaotic Old Town streets.
Today it’s just as grand as it ever was, with some of the city’s best shopping, dining and cultural attractions. This self-guided Edinburgh New Town walking tour takes you through the areas highlights over three miles, with enough museums, monuments, gardens and galleries to fill a day – ending at one of Edinburgh’s most spectacular viewpoints.
A self-guided walking tour of Edinburgh New Town
Start your Edinburgh New Town walking tour next to the Scott Monument (EH2 2EJ) at the eastern end of the Princes Street Gardens. It’s just a couple of minutes’ walk from Edinburgh Waverley train station or there’s a tram stop on Princes Street.
Scott Monument
The imposing Scott Monument is dedicated to Scottish author Sir Walter Scott, author of Ivanhoe and Rob Roy. This 61-metre-tall Victorian monument – nicknamed the ‘Gothic Rocket’ by author Bill Bryson – features 64 carvings of characters from his books.
At the bottom you can see a statue of Scott and his dog Maida. But it’s worth climbing the 287 spiral stairs to the top for views across the Princes Street Gardens to Edinburgh Castle. There’s a small museum about Scott’s life and work along the way, but the stairs get narrower as you climb, so you might want to give it a miss if you’re claustrophobic.
From the monument, walk west through the Princes Street Gardens.
Princes Street Gardens
The Princes Street Gardens are where Edinburgh’s Old Town and New Town meet, with the railway line alongside. It’s hard to imagine it today with the neatly mowed lawns and colourful flower beds, but the Princes Street Gardens were once a polluted cesspool.
The Nor Loch was created in 1460 by James III to strengthen the Castle’s defences. But it also stopped the city from being able to expand, and waste from the overcrowded medieval Old Town flowed right down into it. It became an eyesore and a health hazard, so in the late 18th century the Nor Loch was drained and the gardens were built on top.
Today the gardens are popular spot for a stroll or a picnic, as well as being home to the Scottish National Gallery and the city’s annual Christmas markets.
Scottish National Gallery
The Scottish National Gallery is one of Edinburgh’s three national galleries, which all have free access to their permanent collections. It opened to the public in 1859 and has thousands of artworks on display, from the Renaissance to the 19th century. There’s a mix of international and Scottish artists, including works by Van Gogh, Cézanne and Monet.
You can also visit the quieter Royal Scottish Academy next door, which has seasonal exhibitions focusing on contemporary Scottish art and is also free to visit.
Walk on through the rest of the Princes Street Gardens – look out for the 19th-century cast-iron Ross Fountain and the floral clock which is planted with a new design each year. When you reach the end of the gardens, you’ll see a church in front of you.
The Parish Church of St Cuthbert
There’s been a church on the site of St Cuthbert’s since 670 AD. But being right beneath the castle means it was often damaged in attacks, so there have been at least six buildings since then. The current church dates from 1894 and has decorative interiors, with ceiling frescoes, an alabaster frieze of the Last Supper and a Tiffany stained-glass window.
It’s surrounded by one of Edinburgh’s biggest cemeteries, with hundreds of ornate memorials and monuments, set against the backdrop of the castle.
From the church, climb up the steps onto Princes Street, then cross over the road and walk straight ahead down Charlotte Street to Charlotte Square.
Charlotte Square
Charlotte Square is one of the Georgian garden squares which are so characteristic of Edinburgh’s New Town. On the north side of the square at number 5 is Bute House, the official residence of Scotland’s First Minister. And a couple of doors down at number 7 is The Georgian House, a National Trust for Scotland property you can visit.
This imposing townhouse has been beautifully restored with period furniture, paintings, china and silver. It’s a trip back in time to the 18th century when the elegant dining and drawing rooms were used to entertain and impress Edinburgh’s social elite – while servants below stairs created elaborate banquets by candlelight without running water.
In the northeast of the square, cross over Charlotte Street and walk down Young Street. You’ll pass The Oxford Bar, which was Ian Rankin’s fictional detective John Rebus’ favourite pub. When you reach Castle Street, turn right then left onto George Street.
George Street
Named after King George III, George Street is lined with grand Victorian buildings and monuments. Look out for the Grand Lodge of Scotland (no 96), headquarters of the freemasons in Scotland, and The Assembly Rooms (no 54), which opened in 1787 for balls and social events. And nos 22–26 are home to the Royal Society of Edinburgh.
The Dome
At no 14 George Street is The Dome, a former 1880s bank headquarters which has been converted into a glamorous bar and restaurant with an Art Deco-inspired interior, sweeping staircases and sparkling chandeliers. But most impressive is the glass-domed ceiling which gives it its name, with a circular bar beneath it where you can stop for a drink.
Turn right out of The Dome and at the end of George Street walk across St Andrew Square, named after Scotland’s patron saint. Go left when you reach the far side of the square and walk as far as Queen Street and the Scottish National Portrait Gallery.
Scottish National Portrait Gallery
Scottish National Portrait Gallery is the second of Edinburgh’s national galleries (the third in Stockbridge is dedicated to modern art). It was the world’s first purpose-built portrait gallery when it opened in 1889 and houses a vast collection of paintings, sculptures and photographs of notable Scots, from the Middle Ages to the modern day.
Its beautiful Gothic-style red sandstone building is impressive in its own right. And don’t miss the Great Hall, which has a colourful frieze running around the walls, golden lanterns and a glittering celestial ceiling (head up to the mezzanine for a closer look).
Retrace your steps back to St Andrew Square and carry straight on along South St Andrew Street until you reach Princes Street. Turn left, passing the Waveley Mall.
The Balmoral Hotel
The five-star Balmoral Hotel* is Edinburgh’s most iconic place to stay. This Victorian building next to Waverley station opened in 1902 as the North British Railway Hotel. After a total refurbishment in the 1990s it reopened as the luxurious Balmoral Hotel.
Make sure to look up at the clock tower – the hotel’s clock is famously set to run three minutes fast to give passengers a bit of extra time to catch their trains (except on 31 December when it shows the right time during Edinburgh’s Hogmanay celebrations).
Continue straight on along Waterloo Place, then take the steps on the left to Calton Hill.
Calton Hill
Calton Hill is one of the seven hills which surround Edinburgh, and has to be my favourite city viewpoint, especially at sunset. There are fantastic views in all directions – out over the Old Town to the castle, across the New Town and up to Arthur’s Seat.
There’s also an eclectic mix of early 19th-century monuments at the top, including the National Monument – Edinburgh’s take on the Acropolis. It was built in 1816 to commemorate the lives lost in the Napoleonic Wars and was planned to be full replica of Athens’ Parthenon. But the money ran out, leaving ‘Edinburgh’s folly’ half-finished.
There are also Greek-inspired monuments to Robert Burns and Scottish philosopher Dugald Stewart, and a giant upturned telescope commemorating Lord Nelson. Calton Hill was also the site of an astronomical observatory, which is now a modern art gallery.
Follow the path down the Waterloo Steps on the north side of Calton Hill, then turn left once you reach Blenheim Place and walk downhill to Leith Walk.
Broughton
Finish your Edinburgh New Town walking tour in Broughton, a bohemian neighbourhood with great places to eat and drink. My picks include Pickles (60 Broughton Street) for wine and cheese platters, L’Escargot Bleu French bistro (56 Broughton Street) and The Educated Flea (32b Broughton Street) for gluten-free dishes from around the world.
There’s also the Edinburgh Street Food market (Omni Centre), which has 11 different resident food stalls. And the quaint 19th-century Gardener’s Cottage (1 Royal Terrace Gardens) is a good choice for a special occasion, featuring locally grown produce.
From Broughton Street it’s a 10-minute walk to Waverley station. Or there’s a tram stop at Picardy Place which takes you back to Princes Street.
Self-guided Edinburgh New Town walking tour map
If you’d like to do this free New Town walking tour yourself, click on the map below to access directions through Google maps. The route is 3 miles (4.9km) and takes around 75 minutes to walk straight through, but allow several hours to include stops on the way.
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