Travel tales

From tree to bar: A St Lucia chocolate tour at Hotel Chocolat

From tree to bar: A St Lucia chocolate tour at Hotel Chocolat

From an offering to the Mayan gods to a $50 billion business, chocolate has taken over the world. This little piece of heaven in a bar has millions of devotees around the world, whether you’re more a 90% cocoa or Cadbury’s Buttons type of chocolate-lover. Even the scientific name of the cocoa plant means ‘food of the gods’ in Greek. But why do we love chocolate so much? Is it the ratio of fat to sugar, or the feel-good chemicals? Either way there’s something about this bean that makes it irresistible. So on my trip to the Caribbean with Cap Maison I set out to uncover the secrets of St Lucia chocolate on a tour with Hotel Chocolat, from tree to bar.

Read more: Food in St Lucia: From market to plate

Gateway to Rabot Estate in St Lucia

Rabot Estate in St Lucia

Chocolate in St Lucia

Central America might be the ancestral home of chocolate, but the Caribbean also has a long history of chocolate-making. St Lucia has the perfect conditions for growing cacao – volcanic soil, plenty of sun and rain – and chocolate’s been made on the island since the 1700s.

For years St Lucia’s biggest crop was the banana. But changes to trade agreements in the 1990s led to a collapse in the banana trade, and local farmers started to turn back to cacao farming. In the past the beans were sent to the US or Europe to be made into chocolate, but today it’s also made in St Lucia. So you can eat, drink or even have spa treatments with local chocolate.

Liquid chocolate at Hotel Chocolat in Saint Lucia

Liquid chocolate

A St Lucia chocolate tour with Hotel Chocolat

One of the best places to get a taste of St Lucia’s chocolate renaissance is the Caribbean base of British chocolate brand Hotel Chocolat. The company called themselves Hotel Chocolat when they started out because they thought the taste of a good chocolate could transport you to a new place. But since then they’ve grown and started an actual hotel in St Lucia too.

Boucan is set in the hills above Soufrière in the southwest of St Lucia with a panoramic view of the Pitons – the island’s most famous landmark. There’s chocolate for sale, chocolate on the restaurant menu, and the building’s even designed in chocolatey shades of dark wood. But this is not just some kind of chocolate theme park – it’s a working cocoa plantation too.

Boucan the Hotel Chocolat hotel in Soufrière, St Lucia, with views of the Pitons

Boucan hotel

The 140-acre hillside Rabot Estate plantation was founded in 1745 and taken over by Hotel Chocolat in 2006. At that time most chocolatiers bought their chocolate in ready made and hardly any would grow their own beans. So it was a pretty unusual step to buy an estate and get involved with all stages of the process, going against the rest of the chocolate industry.

But growing their own cocoa has meant they can produce high-end, single-estate chocolate – a bit like single vineyard wines in that you can tell exactly where each bar comes from. And even if you’re not staying at Boucan you can do a chocolate-making tour, which takes you through the life of a chocolate bar – from tree to bean to bar and finally into your mouth.

Chocolate making at Rabot Estate plantation in St Lucia

Rabot Estate

Tree to bean

The first part of our tour took us from the cocoa tree to the dried beans. We started with a walk through the estate, where you can see cocoa pods in all their different stages of life – from tiny green shoots to swollen, ripe red pods almost ready to pick. The trees need plenty of shade so there are lots of other local plants growing in among them too, like soursop, banana and mango – all of which feature on the menu in the hotel’s restaurant. The cocoa pods take around six months to grow, and the main harvest season is between November and February.

Ripe cocoa pods at Rabot Estate plantation

Ripe cocoa pods

Once the pods are harvested, they’re cut open and the cocoa beans are scooped out. Our guide cracked open a pod so we could see the brown beans inside, covered in a thick, sticky white coating. The beans are pretty bitter at this stage but the coating is sweet and sticky if you suck it. They’re nicknamed jungle M&Ms, though they taste nothing like chocolate at this stage.

To get the beans ready for roasting, they’re fermented in big wooden containers for a week before being left to dry out underneath St Lucia’s hot sunshine. At the moment the cocoa beans have to be sent to the UK to be roasted and made into chocolate, but Hotel Chocolat are building a factory on the estate so they’ll be able to do it all on one site soon.

Fermenting cocoa beans at Hotel Chocolat's estate in St Lucia

Fermenting cocoa beans

Our final stop was at the seedling nursery, where you can create your own cocoa tree. Cocoa isn’t an easy plant to grow, so instead of growing a whole new plant from a seed, seedlings are grafted onto existing roots. Cuttings are taken from the estate’s best plants and these are spliced with hardiest roots. This means you get the tastiest chocolate on the plants which are most likely to thrive, and grafting also means the trees bear fruit a lot quicker.

All the estate’s trees are recorded so if I come back to St Lucia one day I can go and check up on my ‘Luxworth’ special. Not all of Hotel Chocolat’s cocoa is grown at Rabot Estate, they also work with local farmers who buy their grafted plants and then sell the beans back at a higher cost. That way they can produce more chocolate but still keep control of quality.

Grafting a cocoa tree at Rabot Estate plantation

My grafted tree

Bean to bar

The next phase of the tour took us through how to turn the beans into chocolate using classic traditional techniques. Everyone was given their own workstation, with jars of ingredients and a heated pestle and mortar. There were dried cocoa nibs, cocoa butter and sugar – everything you need to create the perfect chocolate bar. That and a whole lot of hard work.

First we crushed the cocoa nibs by pounding them in the pestle and mortar. In 30-degree heat and 80% humidity it didn’t take a long to build up a sweat. And it’s tougher than it looks – even after 10 minutes of pounding my cocoa powder still looked more gritty than silky smooth.

The inside of a cocoa pod in St Lucia

The inside of a cocoa pod

Next you add cocoa butter and sugar and keep on stirring. Our guide Merle kept us supplied with tales from the history of chocolate to distract us from our aching arms. Like the Aztecs who used cacao seeds as currency and mixed chocolate and spices into a bitter drink. And Bristol chocolate-maker Joseph Fry who discovered adding cocoa butter made chocolate mouldable.

Then finally we poured our melted chocolate into a mould and left the chocolate to set. After a quick tasting of course. The pure, deep flavour takes a bit of getting used to if you’re used to sugary mass-produced chocolate. And my only criticism of the tour is that it would’ve been nice to have some tasting samples to try to see how it’s supposed to be done.

Chocolate making at Hotel Chocolat in St Lucia

Hard at work

Bar to mouth

While we waited for our chocolate to set, we headed to Boucan Restaurant for lunch. Their ‘cacao cuisine’ menu uses chocolate in every form – from pulp to roasted nibs and their single-estate chocolate. And if the chocolate cocktails don’t knock you out the view of the Pitons will.

The idea of a chocolate-based main course takes a bit of getting your head around. But cocoa has been used as a savoury ingredient for over 3000 years, versus only 500 years as a sweet ingredient. My Cacao Super Bowl (a salad made with quinoa and cacao-infused yoghurt) was much more spicy and nutty than sweet. Other chocolate concoctions on the menu included fish and chips cooked in cacao tempura and their take on a traditional St Lucian roti.

Cacao Super Bowl at Boucan restaurant, Saint Lucia

Cacao Super Bowl

But the restaurant’s real star was the dessert menu. I’ve never seen so many chocolate options – chocolate lava cake, chocolate tart, a nine-course chocolate tasting plate. But I couldn’t resist a Magnificent Piton – a meringue recreation of one of the Pitons served in a chocolate soup with bananas, almonds and caramel sauce which was rich, creamy and smooth.

Which is more than you can say for my lovingly hand-crafted chocolate bar. Despite all that hard work and sweat it still came out a bit bitter and grainy. So I guess I better leave the chocolate-making to the experts and concentrate on what I’m best at – eating it.

Magnificent Piton dessert at Boucan restaurant

My meringue Piton

The details

St Lucia chocolate tours at Hotel Chocolat’s Rabot Estate take place at 9am on Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays, or at 1pm on Wednesdays and Fridays. The Tree-to-Bean Experience and Bean-to-Bar Experience last an hour each (with a half-hour gap between them). Both parts combined cost $88 per person (or $61 if you’re staying at the Boucan hotel).

Read more Caribbean posts

Boucan the Hotel Chocolat hotel in Soufrière, St Lucia

Rabot Estate

Pin it

Heaven for chocolate lovers on a chocolate tour and chocolate-making at Hotel Chocolat's Rabot Estate in Saint Lucia, taking you from tree to bean to bar #chocolate #HotelChocolat #SaintLucia #StLuciaA chocolate tour and chocolate-making at Hotel Chocolat's Rabot Estate in St Lucia, taking you from tree to bean to bar #chocolate #HotelChocolat #SaintLucia #StLucia

Big thanks to Cap Maison and Hotel Chocolat for hosting me in St Lucia. This article contains affiliate links, where I get a small commission at no extra cost to you, thanks.

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  • Reply
    August 8, 2018 at 6:11 pm

    What a great experience. I love St. Lucia but did not go on the chocolate tour. However, I did go on one similar in Grenada. Perfect for chocolate lovers!!

    • Reply
      August 8, 2018 at 10:12 pm

      I hear Grenada is a good place to go for chocolate – I’ll have to go and compare!

  • Reply
    Suzanne Jones
    August 9, 2018 at 9:30 am

    Sounds like a fabulous tour! I’d find it difficult to get my head around a chocolate main course too although I did once have a cheese and chocolate pairing which worked surprisingly well.

    • Reply
      August 15, 2018 at 7:51 pm

      Me too – it seems so weird to have a savoury chocolate dish but it was really tasty! And you can never have too much cheese…

  • Reply
    Lynsey || One More Slice
    August 9, 2018 at 11:09 am

    I visited Saint Lucia back in June through work (I’m a travel agent) and we tried some pretty incredible chocolate. I didn’t get the chance to visit Hotel Chocolat, although I am desperate to go back to Saint Lucia – there is just so much to do! I visited Cap Mason (gorgeous property!), did you manage to see the two cats that live there? So cute! xx

    Lynsey || One More Slice

    • Reply
      August 15, 2018 at 7:50 pm

      Loved Cap Maison! I did meet the cats too, and have a pic of Davidson in my post about the hotel – he was such a character (and a very good poser!).

  • Reply
    August 10, 2018 at 12:22 pm

    You had me at Chocolate Tour! We haven’t been to St Lucia (yet) but I do hope to get there soon. Certainly something to add to the itinerary!

    • Reply
      August 15, 2018 at 7:52 pm

      Definitely worth a visit – their chocolate is so good (though mine was not!).

  • Reply
    Kathryn @TravelWithKat
    August 19, 2018 at 9:12 pm

    Oh my goodness, all that chocolate and that view!! I’ve died and gone to heaven!

    • Reply
      August 23, 2018 at 9:54 am

      It’s a very special combination!

  • Reply
    Jaillan Yehia
    August 20, 2018 at 4:20 pm

    Can I ‘chip in’ with my chocolate making memories? I did a chocolate making day in Granada, Nicaragua and I loved it, but I had actually heard about the Hotel Chocolat hotel at an event where I remember just drooling over the pictures and thinking it looked like utter paradise, so I am very jealous!

    • Reply
      August 23, 2018 at 9:59 am

      It was so gorgeous, I may have to go back and stay next time!

  • Reply
    Getz destinations
    August 31, 2018 at 10:33 am

    I can say what would be better than having chocolate at Saint Lucia. This is really pleasing to read such blogs. Thanks for sharing.

    • Reply
      September 3, 2018 at 9:55 am

      Thanks, it really was a delicious place!

  • Reply
    Tanja/The Red Phone Box travels
    September 2, 2018 at 8:20 pm

    this is just divine:)

    • Reply
      September 3, 2018 at 9:57 am

      Definitely heaven for chocolate lovers!

  • Reply
    Nanyi Mateo
    February 8, 2019 at 9:21 am

    I have never know about this ”hotel concept” before. I’m a chocolate lover so I feel like I MUST go there some day. Thank you so much for letting us know about your adventures!

    • Reply
      February 12, 2019 at 10:10 pm

      If you love chocolate you really will love this place!

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