Paris in winter: 9 things to do in Paris at Christmas

Paris in winter: 9 things to do in Paris at Christmas

There’s an extra dose of magic to a trip to Paris in winter, when the City of Lights is lit up even brighter by thousands of twinkling bulbs. Each of Paris’ districts has something festive going on, from window shopping at the grand magasins and browsing the Christmas markets with a glass of vin chaud, to taking a spin on an outdoor ice rink and exploring a vintage funfair. So dig out your scarf and gloves and join me for nine of the best things to do in Paris at Christmas.

Read more: Things to do in Paris in spring and autumn

Paris cafe at Christmas

Cafés at Christmas

What’s Paris’ winter weather like?

The weather in Paris in the winter months is usually fairly mild – average temperatures range from a high of 8°C (46°F) to a low of 3°C (37°F). It can get frosty at night though and there’s a fair few rain or sleet showers, so pack a waterproof or umbrella. But the city has plenty of cosy cafés, museums and things to do indoors so you can always find a warm spot to thaw out in.

Things to do in Paris in winter

Where to find the best views of Paris from above

Paris rooftops

1. Admire the Christmas lights

From mid-November, Paris gets decked in her Christmas finery. Trees are draped with twinkling lights and colourful decorations are strung across the streets. Most areas of Paris get an extra dose of sparkle for the festive season, but for the most over-the-top display head to the Champs Elysées. This year’s display is themed on the colour red and has been created by lighting designers Blachère Illuminations. It runs from 24 November 2019 to 8 January 2020.

Boulevard Haussmann has gone high-tech with lights that you can change the colours and patterns of using a smartphone app (from 1 December). And other streets which go all out with the light displays include Rue Faubourg-St-Honoré with its chandeliers made by crystal makers Baccarat, Place Vendôme with its forest of sparkling pine trees, Avenue Montaigne and Bercy Village. There’s a city sightseeing bus tour showing off the best of the illuminations too.

Champs-Elysees Paris Christmas lights

Lights on the Champs-Elysees

2. Go window shopping

Paris’ big department stores dress for Christmas with some impressively festive store window displays. Each year’s decorations have a different theme – from Hollywood glamour to Beauty and the Beast. And they feature lights, animations, music, and plenty of snow and sparkle. The planning for next year starts as soon as the previous year’s decorations get taken down, and there are big celebrity opening nights each year when the new displays are unveiled.

You find some of the best festive window displays at Galeries Lafayette – where there’s also a giant tree underneath the building’s central dome – and Le Printemps (both Boulevard Haussmann, nearest Metro: Chaussée d’Antin), Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche (24 Rue de Sèvres, Metro: Sèvres-Babylone) and BHV Marais (52 Rue de Rivoli, Metro: Hôtel de Ville).

Galeries Lafayette Christmas lights Paris

Going for gold at Galeries Lafayette

3. Visit the Christmas markets

Since they started in Germany, Christmas markets have spread across Europe and beyond to become an annual festive tradition, and you find them in most cities – Paris included. Fill up on festive treats as you wander around the wooden chalets, selling everything from handmade tree decorations and wooden gifts to cheeses from across France and Eiffel Tower-shaped biscuits. These ‘Marchés de Noël’ are held across the city during December.

Paris’ biggest Christmas market is in La Défense, with over 300 craft and food stalls spread over 10,000 square metres. There’s also the ‘Starry Christmas’ market in Place Joachim-du-Bellay in Les Halles, and markets in the Tuileries gardens, Square René Viviani near Notre Dame Cathedral and at the Champs de Mars. There are a few specialist markets too – from vegan to Nordic and Japanese-themed. Check details online for opening times and locations.

Paris Christmas markets

Christmas markets gifts

4. Go ice skating

Try out your skating skills with a spin around one of Paris’ outdoor ice rinks. You can skate underneath the Eiffel Tower at the Champs de Mars Christmas market and in the Jardin des Tuileries. There’s also an ice rink in the beautiful Grand Palais, with the biggest ice rink in France under its domed glass roof (open 13 December 2019 to 8 January 2020 – though it’s one of the more pricey skating spots, costing €17 from 10am–1.30pm or €25 from 2pm–7pm).

But this year it’s all about the rooftop rinks. Firstly you can ice skate on the roof of the Galeries Lafayette department store, home to one of my favourite views of Paris. It’s open from 9.30am to 8.30pm, entry’s free and if you time it right you can watch the Eiffel Tower sparkling on the hour after sunset. Or get even higher at the ice rink on top of the Grande Arche at La Défense (open from 21 December 2019 to 5 January 2020), with city views from 110 metres high.

Ice skating in Paris at Christmas

On the ice

5. Take a trip to the fair

Go back in time with a vintage fairground at the Musee Des Arts Forains. This private collection of fairground rides and stalls dating back to 1850 is normally only open to visitors on guided tours. But from 26 December 2019 to 5 January 2020 it hosts the Festival du Merveilleux, with storytellers, magicians, musicians, dancers and puppeteers (entry €16 adults/€6 children). It’s also free for children to ride on many of the city’s carousels over Christmas.

Carousel in Paris, France

Carousel horses

6. Listen to a Christmas concert

Some of Paris’ most atmospheric buildings hold festive concerts around Christmas. There are classical concerts in the churches at Saint-Germain des Prés, Saint-Ephrem-le-Syriaque and La Madeleine. There’s also a classical concert being held right inside the Eiffel Tower on Christmas Eve. But most spectacular of all has to be Sainte-Chapelle. This Gothic chapel’s walls are made up of 16 huge stained glass windows covering over 600 square metres. When the musicians are playing and the light hits the windows and makes them glow, it’s magical.

Sainte-Chapelle in Paris

Sainte-Chapelle’s stained glass

7. Join in a Christmas church service

If you’re spending Christmas in Paris, there are services held in churches across the city. At Sacre Couer Basilica there’s an organ concert, sung vigil and midnight mass on Christmas Eve as well as several masses on Christmas Day. There are also Christmas Eve and Christmas Day services at the churches of Saint Sulpice, Madeleine and Saint Eustache. They do get busy though so arrive early and be prepared to queue. There are also English-language services held at the American Cathedral in Paris, the Scots Kirk and St Michael’s Church.

Montmartre’s art and history: A self-guided Paris walking tour

Sacre Coeur Basilica

8. Warm up with a vin chaud

A steaming cup of vin chaud is a French festive staple. Dry red wine is mixed with sugar, orange and  fragrant spices like cinnamon, star anise, cardamon and cloves to make a real winter warmer (sometimes with a extra warming nip of cognac). You can find it on sale in bars and cafés across the city as well as in the Christmas markets – it often comes in a special commemorative mug which you pay a few euros deposit for and can take home as a souvenir.

Pan of vin chaud at Christmas

Vin chaud

9. Have an Enchanted Christmas at Disneyland Paris

Celebrate an ‘Enchanted Christmas’ at Disneyland Paris, just outside of the city. Disney’s festive season last from 9 November 2019 to 6 January 2020 with Christmas shows and parades as well as markets, light shows and streets dripping in decorations. A day ticket costs £47 on weekdays or £70 at weekends. You can catch the Disneyland Paris Express from the Gare du Nord which gets you to the park for 10am and returns to the city at 9pm for a full day of festivities.

Enchanted Christmas at Disneyland Paris

Christmas at Disneyland Paris – photo credit katsuhiro7110 on Flickr

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Paris in winter: 9 great things to do in Paris at Christmas, with festive light displays, Christmas markets, ice skating, church concerts and funfair rides. #Paris #France #winter #Christmas #ChristmasinParis9 things to do in Paris in winter, the best of Paris at Christmas, including festive light displays, Christmas markets, ice skating, church concerts and funfair rides. #Paris #Christmas #winter

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  • Reply
    Suzanne Jones
    October 31, 2018 at 5:27 pm

    So now I want to go straight back to Paris to soak up the Christmas magic!

    • Reply
      November 4, 2018 at 5:47 pm

      Always a good excuse for a trip to Paris!

  • Reply
    Mehek Punatar
    November 1, 2018 at 8:11 am

    Absolutely love this! Gave me all the wintery feels and I feel like booking a ticket right away. Christmas markets are the best 🙂

    • Reply
      November 4, 2018 at 5:49 pm

      Thank you! I do love a Christmas market – guaranteed to get me feeling festive!

  • Reply
    Kathryn @TravelWithKat
    November 8, 2018 at 5:41 pm

    I love Paris any time of year but agree it is extra special at Christmas. I went a few years ago. I remember having lunch at Galeries Lafayette on a balcony overlooking that lovely golden Christmas tree under the glass dome. Magic!

    • Reply
      November 28, 2018 at 8:19 pm

      Those decorations at Galeries Lafayette are really something special!

  • Reply
    Explore With Ed
    December 4, 2018 at 10:14 pm

    I’ve only ever been in the summer – it really does look magical at Christmas!

    • Reply
      December 5, 2018 at 11:44 am

      It does add some extra special sparkle – but there’s never really a wrong time to visit!

  • Reply
    January 30, 2019 at 9:00 am

    Love the Christmas decorations and the festive ambiance in the department stores !! A pity it doesn’t last longer 🙂

    • Reply
      February 3, 2019 at 8:04 pm


  • Reply
    Ali Oliveira
    March 3, 2019 at 8:57 pm

    Awesome recommendations! I need to go back to Paris now.

    • Reply
      March 5, 2019 at 9:49 pm

      Paris is always a good idea!

  • Reply
    March 5, 2019 at 12:15 am

    I was in Paris in October 2017 when my bike guide said, “Look! They’re putting up lights for Christmas already. You should see the city then!” I was intrigue…so…I am returning to Paris In December to ring in 2020. I can’t wait! Thank you for the blog.

    • Reply
      March 5, 2019 at 9:49 pm

      Hope you have an amazing time, it really is magical at that time of year!

  • Reply
    April 4, 2019 at 3:33 am

    Can you recommend a special restaurant for dinner on Christmas Day.

  • Reply
    May 14, 2019 at 4:37 pm

    The Christmas Market of Paris Notre Dame has been named by french press the most charming Christmas market in Paris. I would be happy to send you pictures ! it will be from 13th-29th december 2019, square Viviani, 75005- 30 meters from the Notre Dame Cathedral. In that little square you can also see the oldest tree in Paris (dated 1630). Don’t hesitate to contact me. Best regards. NIna

    • Reply
      May 26, 2019 at 9:32 pm

      Sounds great – thanks!

  • Reply
    October 11, 2019 at 8:57 pm

    Thank you so much for this. It helps a lot. Husband and I are traveling to Paris this Christmas. It will be our first time and we can’t wait. 🙂

    • Reply
      October 13, 2019 at 5:07 pm

      Hope you have an amazing time, it’s a brilliant time to visit!

  • Reply
    November 8, 2019 at 11:49 pm

    Hi, do you have any recommendations on accommodation in Paris over Christmas time for a family of 5?

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