Discover the myths and legends behind the spectacular 15th-century Rosslyn Chapel, made famous by Dan Brown’s book The Da Vinci Code, with this guide to planning a day trip from Edinburgh.
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Located just a few miles south of Edinburgh city centre, Rosslyn (also known as Roslin)’s main draw is its beautiful 15th-century chapel. It’s one of the most impressive churches in the country, with eleborate stone carvings created by master craftsmen.
But it’s not just the chapel’s stunning architecture which draws people to visit Rosslyn, it’s also the secrets and speculation about its origins – fueled by author Dan Brown’s book The Da Vinci Code, which suggested it could be the home of the Holy Grail. But what’s the real story – and how can you plan a day trip to Rosslyn Chapel from Edinburgh?
The history of Rosslyn Chapel
Rosslyn Chapel was the brainchild of nobleman William St Clair. He spent his mid-20s exploring Europe and developed an obsession with France’s Gothic cathedrals. So when he came back to Scotland in 1446 he decided to build his own version just outside Edinburgh – The Collegiate Chapel of Saint Matthew, better known as Rosslyn Chapel.
It’s thought that William’s original vision for Rosslyn Chapel was on a much grander scale than what you see today. The chapel was 34 metres longer and had a giant tower visible from the centre of Edinburgh. He had plenty of money to fund his plans, and brought an army of master craftsmen from across the UK and beyond to work on his vision.
The village of Roslin grew up around the chapel to house all the people working on it. But 40 years later, Rosslyn Chapel still wasn’t finished when William died, so he never got to see his creation come to life. Nor did anyone in the end. His son Oliver had the roof completed but abandoned William’s grand plans for towers and giant transepts.
William’s family were Catholics, so during the Scottish Reformation the chapel was damaged and statues stripped out, leaving it empty. Being built from stone rather than wood helped preserve it for a while, but eventually it started to fall into disrepair.
By the time Queen Victoria visited Rosslyn in 1842, years of neglect and Scottish winters had left the chapel in a sorry state. But she was keen it should be preserved. It reopened in the 1860s, but some of the works to fix the damage only made things worse.
By the late 1990s, Rosslyn Chapel was in need of serious help. It was cold and damp, with algae covering the walls and ceilings inside. So a massive project took place to dry it out, in an attempt to preserve what was left and restore what had been damaged.
A huge protective steel canopy was built right over the top of the chapel to protect the roof while it was repaired. Loose mortar was replaced, the carvings, stained glass and organ were restored and heating installed. And now the chapel is looking as good as ever.
Visiting Rosslyn Chapel
Rosslyn Chapel’s exteriors features honey stone, arched windows and pillars. But inside is even more special. Almost every surface is covered with intricate carvings – stars, flowers, doves, angels and over 100 Green Men (human faces with greenery growing out).
The Apprentice Pillar has some of the most impressive carvings. Legend has it the master stonemason went away and his apprentice finished the column perfectly. When the stonemason came back, he flew into a jealous rage and killed the apprentice.
In punishment, his face was carved into the pillar opposite so he would have to stare at his apprentice’s pillar for eternity. The pillar is said to represent the Tree of Life, with symbols from Celtic, Pagan, Norse and Christian traditions all combined together.
That’s not the only legend attached to the chapel either, there are stories about its links with Freemasonry and the Knights Templar. Is it built on a mysterious ‘Rose Line’? Or could it be hiding place for the Holy Grail? Much of the original documentation when the chapel was built has been destroyed or gone missing, so legends have flourished.
Author Dan Brown was so taken with the chapel and its myths that he made them part of his bestselling book The Da Vinci Code, which started off Rosslyn Chapel’s second renaissance. He called it ‘the most mysterious and magical chapel on earth’.
Tom Hanks and Audrey Tatou came to Rosslyn to film in the chapel crypt during the making of The Da Vinci Code film. And once the film came out, visitor numbers spiked from 34,000 to over 176,000, helping raise funds for more conservation work.
You can visit the underground chamber used in filming. But is there a mysterious second chamber hidden away underneath – and could it be the site of the Holy Grail?
Well you might think it’d be easy to check, but there are concerns that unearthing the chamber could damage the structure of the chapel, and the current Earl of Rosslyn doesn’t want to disturb the bodies of his ancestors. So the mystery will have to stay that way for now. But it just helps add to the fascinating story of Rosslyn Chapel.
What else to see in Roslin
The chapel lies on the edge of Roslin Glen, a peaceful area of woodland perfect for a walk. Tucked away among the trees is ruined Roslin Castle, built by William St Clair’s ancestors on a hillside across a tall bridge where the original drawbridge once stood.
The original castle on this site was built in the 14th century. There’s not much left of it now, but of course it has its own legend. This is of a sleeping lady who will wake up one day, reveal a buried treasure and make the castle rise up from the ruins.
Until then you can stay in a holiday apartment hidden away next to the ruins, which is run by Rosslyn Chapel and the Landmark Trust and sleeps eight. They also rent out nearby Collegehill House next to the chapel which sleeps six. It was built in 1660 as the Old Rosslyn Inn, when it hosted travellers including Robert Burns and JMW Turner.
The (slightly confusingly named) Original Rosslyn Inn* also lies just down the road from the chapel. It has accommodation as well as serving food and drinks in their Lounge and Conservatory, or in the more casual (and dog-friendly) Snug Bar.
The details
How to get to Rosslyn Chapel
Rosslyn Chapel is located around seven miles south of Edinburgh. If you’re driving, the postcode is EH25 9PU, and there’s free parking by the chapel. If you don’t have a car, the Lothian Buses number 37 bus takes around 45 minutes from Princes Street to Roslin village (the nearest bus stop to the chapel is outside the Original Rosslyn Inn).
There are also several day tours from Edinburgh which visit Rosslyn Chapel – one also includes Melrose Abbey* and another visits Stirling Castle and Dunfermline Abbey.*
Rosslyn Chapel opening hours and prices
Rosslyn Chapel chapel is open daily from 9am–5pm on Mondays to Saturdays and 12pm–5pm on Sundays. It’s a good idea to book in advance to avoid having to queue up – visitors are given a 90-minute time slot which includes an introductory talk.
Entry costs £10.50 for adults and £9 for concessions (over 65s and students). Children aged 17 and under get free entry. You can also convert your ticket into an annual pass for no extra cost if you’re planning on visiting the chapel more than once.
Tips for visiting Rosslyn Chapel
You’re not allowed to take photos inside the chapel, but you can take them outside. There’s a gift shop where you can pick up books, bags and gifts – including their own Baron’s Gold Ale and a book about William the cat, Rosslyn Chapel’s resident black and white cat who moved in as a kitten and never left until he died at the age of 17 in 2021.
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