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A weekend in York

A weekend in York

I suppose you could say York was my first ‘solo’ trip – it was the first I went away without my parents on a school trip aged 10. Since then I’ve been back a couple of times and have found different things to love with each visit. With influences from the Romans, Vikings, Normans, Tudors and Victorians, you’ve got a whole snapshot of British history in one city. But there’s a lot more to York besides its history – cobbled lanes, over 30 museums and attractions, interesting little shops, tea rooms and cosy pubs. All of which help make it one of my favourite UK city break destinations. So here’s my guide to how to spend 48 hours in York.

More weekend guides: Oxford, Bath, Cheltenham, Cambridge, Canterbury, RyeCardiff, Chester, Glasgow
The remains of York's Abbey

The remains of York’s Abbey

Friday evening

Check in to Marmadukes Town House Hotel, a Victorian townhouse in the leafy area of Bootham, about 10 minutes’ walk from the city centre. The former gentleman’s residence is full of character with antique furniture and some of the 21 bedrooms come with four-poster beds and roll-top baths. It’s all very dimly lit and romantic, with a bar and couple of cosy lounges downstairs. Double rooms start from £89 a night.

You don’t need to go far for dinner as the hotel’s Park Restaurant has been rated the best in York. I’m not normally a fan of hotel restaurants but their eight-course tasting menu (£55 per person) had me converted. It’s served over a few hours and portions aren’t huge so you don’t end up stuffed. You’re left in the capable hands of chef Adam Jackson – though they’re happy to work around dietary restrictions – and the staff talk you through each course, which included seasonal local produce like scallops and venison.

York Minster

York Minster

Saturday morning

Towering over the city, you can’t miss the Cathedral and Metropolitical Church of Saint Peter in York – better known as York Minster (open from 9am, £10 adults, £9 seniors/students, free for children or with a York Pass). It’s one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in Europe (Minster was the title given to churches that were also monasteries). Explore the building’s history in the undercroft and the stunning stained-glass windows above ground. And if you’re travelling with a partner stop for a kiss by the Heart of Yorkshire stained-glass window, as legend says if you do you’ll stay together forever. You can also climb up the 275 steps to the top of the bell tower for panoramic views across the city and over Yorkshire (£5 extra).

Head to one of my favourite museums next – York Castle Museum (£10 adults, free for children or with a York Pass). The castle itself is long gone but instead the former prison buildings on the site have been converted into a museum. There’s a real mixture of exhibits, with a recreated Victorian Street, stories of past prisoners in the old cells and galleries dedicated to toys, the 1960s and the First World War.

If you have time call in at Clifford’s Tower next door (£4.70 adults, £4.20 concessions, £2.70 children 5–15 or free with a York Pass), all that remains of the original castle built by William the Conqueror. It’s especially pretty in spring when the hill around it is covered hoards of daffodils. Then stop for lunch at the Shambles Kitchen, a café famous for its pulled-pork sandwiches in the Shambles, York’s most photographed street with overhanging timber-framed buildings that date back as far as the 14th century.

Clifford's Tower York

Clifford’s Tower

Saturday afternoon

York is surrounded by the remains of its Roman city walls, with just over two miles still standing along with some of the original gateways, which are known as bars. Walking around them is a great way to get your bearings and discover tucked-away buildings and gardens. Head to the north for great views of the Minster and Treasurer’s House. Or you’re a beer fan, head south past the train station to York Brewery, the only brewery within the city walls. You can take a tour to learn more about how their beer is made and try out four of their brews (tours at 2pm, 3.30pm or 5pm, £8 adults, £6 concessions or free with a York Pass).

Pop in for a pre-dinner drink at the Roman Bath, the only pub with a genuine Roman bathhouse in its basement. The ruins were uncovered during renovations in the 1930s and you can pop down to see the caldarium (hot room) and learn more about the days when York was known as Eboracum (£3.50 adults, £2 children or free with a York Pass). Then have an early dinner at Rustique, a French bistro with two locations in York which serves traditional dishes like confit de canard, moules marinières and crème brûlée.

York is reputed to be Europe’s most haunted city, and you can learn about the city’s spooky side on a guided walk. There are a lot of companies running ghost tours, but slightly different is the Bloody Tour of York. Clad in Victorian dress, guide Mad Alice leads you through the twists and turns of the city’s medieval streets and snickleways (aka hidden passageways), with 90 minutes of gruesome stories of torture, blood and gore from the city’s history (departs 8pm from St William’s College by the Minster, £5 adults, £3 under-15s).

York city walls

City walls and bars (gates)

Sunday morning

Don’t fill up too much at breakfast as you’ll need some room for the tasting samples at the Chocolate Story (£10.95 adults, £9.95 seniors/students, £8.95 children or free with a York Pass). A 90-minute tour takes you through the history of chocolate as well as the story of York’s famous sweet-making families – Terry’s, Craven’s and Rowntree’s. There’s lots of excellent chocolate trivia (did you know Terry’s originally made a chocolate lemon and a chocolate apple as well as a chocolate orange?) and the chance to try your hand at creating a chocolate lolly. Don’t miss the hot chocolate at the museum café afterwards, whether you’re more the dark chocolate and chilli or white chocolate with whipped cream and marshmallows type.

Work off your sugar coma with a walk down to the River Ouse for a boat trip from King’s Staith Landing or Lendal Bridge (daily at 12pm and 1.30pm with extra sailings in summer, £10 adults, free for children or with a York Pass). The 45-minute trip takes you up and down the river with lots of facts about the city’s history. Or if you want to explore the river on your own, then in the summer the same company hires out mini red motorboats which seat up to eight (available April–October, costing £25–£40 per hour).

The River Ouse in York

The River Ouse

Sunday afternoon

Finally head to York’s National Railway Museum, the world’s largest railway museum which shows off the city’s long railway history in a huge train shed near the station (free entry). It has around 100 trains on display, from Queen Victoria’s Royal Train and the world speed record-holding Mallard to an original Eurostar train and the only Japanese Shinkansen bullet train on display outside of Japan.

Then finish your weekend with an afternoon tea. Betty’s Café might be York’s most famous tea spot (with the queues to match), but for a truly classy afternoon tea experience visit the Countess of York. In its previous lives this train carriage transported cider in Hereford and was part of the luxurious Orient Express Northern Belle. Now it takes you back to 19th century teatime with a selection of sandwiches, tarts and cakes served on bone china with white linen and silver cutlery (tea served at 2pm and 4pm, £23 per person).

York's Railway and Castle Museums

Inside the Railway and Castle Museums

Have you visited York? Do you have any tips to add on what to see, do and eat?

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How to spend a weekend in York, with tips on what to see, do, eat and drink on a 48-hour escape to the historic English city – ontheluce.com

Thanks to Visit York for hosting me in York, Marmadukes Town House Hotel for providing my accommodation and to Cross Country Trains for providing my travel. All views and opinions are, as always, my own.

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30 Comments

  • Reply
    abitofculture
    April 7, 2016 at 8:41 pm

    Some lovely pics of a city I know well from my uni days. There are some great pubs there – my favourites are the King’s Arms, Lendal Cellars and The Grapes. You’ve just about inspired me to pop back up there for a weekend break.

    • Reply
      Lucy
      April 8, 2016 at 1:42 pm

      It’s such a lovely city, one of those places that I could imagine myself living. Thanks for the pub tips – my cousin moved to Yorkshire last year so I suspect there will be lots more visits on the cards.

  • Reply
    Suzanne Jones
    April 7, 2016 at 10:56 pm

    York is a fabulous city to visit – so much to see and do. I really enjoyed the National Railway Museum on our visit.

    • Reply
      Lucy
      April 8, 2016 at 1:41 pm

      The Railway Museum is great! I’d like to go and see the Cold War Bunker next time, we didn’t quite manage to squeeze that in.

  • Reply
    George
    April 8, 2016 at 12:26 pm

    All good things to know. I’ll be there in October. The York Pass looks like it might have some value.

    • Reply
      Lucy
      April 8, 2016 at 1:39 pm

      Hope you enjoy your trip! Those city passes can be a bit hit and miss but this one was actually really useful.

  • Reply
    jordanbeckwagner
    April 8, 2016 at 2:19 pm

    Great guide! I’ve heard wonderful things about York and am excited to head there xo

    • Reply
      Lucy
      April 10, 2016 at 10:19 pm

      Thanks, it’s a great city, hope you enjoy it!

  • Reply
    Darlene
    April 9, 2016 at 1:53 pm

    A great guide to York. I love all these spots. We had our wedding lunch at the Park Restaurant! Then had our pictures taken by the York Minster. I also love the underground Viking Museum (which I know was damaged by the recent floods)

    • Reply
      Lucy
      April 10, 2016 at 10:21 pm

      How lovely! The restaurant was great and the Minster would be an amazing photo backdrop. There are a few things closed after the floods at the moment but hopefully not for too long.

  • Reply
    MummyTravels
    April 10, 2016 at 8:05 pm

    I do love York – one of the few cities I can imagine living in apart from London. And the ghost tour is great. I have rather fond memories of visiting the Jorvik Centre when I was young and definitely fancy taking my daughter back when she’s older.

    • Reply
      Lucy
      April 10, 2016 at 10:23 pm

      I said the same thing that it’s somewhere I could imagine living! Missed the Jorvik Centre this time as it’s closed for repair after the flooding but one for the next trip.

  • Reply
    Tanja
    April 10, 2016 at 8:53 pm

    great photos! I’d love to visit it:)

    • Reply
      Lucy
      April 10, 2016 at 10:24 pm

      It is a lovely place – hope you get to visit one day!

  • Reply
    thebritishberliner
    April 11, 2016 at 6:53 am

    This is a lovely post about York and I love your photographs!

    I’ve visited York many times being that I’m from Manchester originally Ho! Ho! However, I haven’t been to York since I moved to Germany and that’s saying something lol! I’m on their mailing list and everytime that I think of going, somewhere else beckons instead. However, if I go to the UK this year (and I will), I’ll make it my mission to visit York once again!

    Thanks for reminding me!

    • Reply
      Lucy
      April 12, 2016 at 6:24 pm

      Thanks, we did get lucky with a gorgeous sunny spring day! It’s a great city – I’m already planning to go back and see the other things I missed.

  • Reply
    John
    April 24, 2016 at 10:59 am

    Great guide Luce! I think York has to be one of the best city breaks in the UK. Glad the Railway Museum got a mention – dragged my parents there plenty of times as a kid!

    • Reply
      Lucy
      April 24, 2016 at 7:38 pm

      Thanks John, it’s a fab city – I’ll be back soon for sure (and loved the Railway Museum!).

  • Reply
    Laura
    April 27, 2016 at 7:59 am

    Oh lovely! My aunt and uncle live in Yorkshire and I somehow missed York on my last visit. Next time!

    • Reply
      Lucy
      April 29, 2016 at 9:58 pm

      It’s a great place, hope you get to visit next time!

  • Reply
    Fee
    May 21, 2016 at 5:20 pm

    Great post. I’ve literally just added mine about York as well. You seem to have got blessed with a much sunnier weekend than we did though. I’m a fan of fossgate but I still like to visit new places each time i go back.

    • Reply
      Lucy
      May 22, 2016 at 3:04 pm

      You always take a chance with the weather in England in spring (or anytime of year to be honest!) – we did get a beautiful day though in amongst the clouds. Love York, so much to see up there.

  • Reply
    Barbara
    May 27, 2016 at 1:46 pm

    We visited the Minister in March during the finals for a much coveted organist internship. Beautiful music over two days. I was told it was held yearly

    • Reply
      Lucy
      May 27, 2016 at 1:59 pm

      Sounds lovely – one to look out for for a future visit.

  • Reply
    Emma
    August 18, 2016 at 10:16 am

    I’ll be spending just a day in York this weekend and this post has been super helpful in planning my trip! Absolutely gorgeous photos too, can’t wait to see these places for myself!

    • Reply
      Lucy
      August 19, 2016 at 6:47 pm

      Hope you have a great trip, York’s a great city – so much to see too!

  • Reply
    restlessjo
    December 14, 2016 at 9:23 pm

    Enjoyed it, Lucy. I meant to go down for the Ice Sculptures which happen in the run up to Christmas but events overtook me this year. Wishing you a happy festive season. 🙂

    • Reply
      Lucy
      December 14, 2016 at 11:15 pm

      So much to see in York, I’m due another trip soon. Though I didn’t know about the Ice Sculptures so there’s yet another thing to add to the list!

  • Reply
    megannjenkins
    January 24, 2017 at 9:15 am

    Liked your post! I’ve been to York myself recently- I’ll have to try out the countess of York next time, as we queued for Betty’s 🙂

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 25, 2017 at 6:06 pm

      Betty’s cakes are lovely but the queues are always huge! The Countess is definitely a good option if you want to avoid them.

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