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A weekend in The Cotswolds: A 48-hour itinerary

Cotswold stone cottages in Lower Slaughter

With its green rolling hills, honey-stone villages, country pubs, grand mansions and manicured gardens, the Cotswolds’ film set good looks make it the quintessential English countryside destination. I’m lucky enough to have it on my doorstep, but the Cotswolds also makes a great weekend break. At 800 square miles you could spend a few weeks exploring, so this 48-hour itinerary picks out some of the highlights of the Cotswolds, with a little bit of everything which makes this area so special. So here’s how to spend a weekend in the Cotswolds.

Read more: 10 Great British weekend break ideas

How to spend a weekend in The Cotswolds

St Peter's Church in Upper Slaughter in the Cotswolds

St Peter’s Church in Upper Slaughter

Friday evening

The Cotswolds is not an easy place to get around by public transport – especially if you want to visit lots of different locations – so it’s best to explore by car. If you don’t have your own car you can catch the train to nearby Cheltenham or Oxford where you can pick up a hire car.

Base yourself at The Old Stocks Inn in Stow-on-the-Wold for your weekend in the Cotswolds. This 17th-century coaching inn has a big dose of old-fashioned charm from its oak beams and crooked stone walls, but it’s been given a contemporary makeover with roll-top baths, velvet sofas and Scandi-style soft furnishings. Or if you’d rather have a place to yourself, there are plenty of Cotswolds AirBnBs, from traditional country cottages to shepherd’s huts.

The Broadway Tower in the Cotswolds

The Broadway Tower

Once you’re settled in, travel around nine miles north to the Broadway Tower – one of the best places in the Cotswolds to watch the sun set. This mini castle is a Gothic folly, built in 1799 and used as a countryside retreat by designer William Morris. It’s the second highest spot in the Cotswolds, and on a clear day you can see as far as Wales. Then carry on into the village of Broadway for dinner in the wood-panelled dining room at the Lygon Arms.

The Lygon Arms in Broadway on a weekend in the Cotswolds

The Lygon Arms

Saturday morning

The following morning, make an early start to avoid the crowds in Bourton on the Water, four miles south of Stow. The ‘Venice of the Cotswolds’ is regularly voted one of the prettiest villages in England, so it’s no surprise it’s one of the area’s most popular spots. Grab a coffee and croissant from the Bakery on the Water before crossing the bridges over the River Windrush and exploring Bourton in miniature at the Model Village, a one-ninth scale replica.

Next head to the nearby twin villages of Upper and Lower Slaughter (who get their less-than-appealing name from an old English word for muddy or boggy place rather than anything more sinister…). Park in Lower Slaughter and follow the shallow River Eye past chocolate-box country cottages draped in flowers to The Old Mill. There’s been a mill here since the Domesday Book, and it’s now museum and craft shop (due to reopen in September 2020).

The Old Mill in Lower Slaughter in the Cotswolds

Lower Slaughter’s Old Mill

Carry on past the mill and you’ll pick up the path for the mile-long walk to Upper Slaughter, along the riverside and across open fields. Once you get there, take a look around St Peter’s Church and watch cars braving the ford across the river. Or call in to the grand Lords of the Manor hotel for a Pimms on the terrace and a walk around their gardens on a sunny day.

Then travel a few miles east to Daylesford for lunch. This ultra-trendy farm shop slash café is a favourite with the Cotswolds celebrity crowd. They specialise in organic, sustainable produce, growing their own fruit, vegetables and herbs as well as having a creamery and butchers on site. You can pick up bread, cheese and deli produce for a picnic, or eat in at the café, with grilled chicken, vegetable tarts and salads fresh from the garden on the menu.

The Lords of the Manor Hotel and the River Eye in Upper Slaughter

The Lords of the Manor Hotel and paddling in the River Eye

Saturday afternoon

After lunch, drive 20 miles south to the village of Bibury, just north of Cirencester. There are a few different ways you can take get there, but the most scenic route is along the B4425 which passes through a string of tiny villages called the Rissingtons and the Barringtons.

Bibury was once a mill town on the banks of the River Coln, surrounded by water meadows. Now it’s one of the most famous Cotswold villages and has starred in films like Stardust and Bridget Jones’ Diary. Head to Arlington Row – a row of 17th-century weaver’s cottages so typically English they even appear on the inside cover of UK passports. They’re now owned by the National Trust so you can’t go inside, but it’s a great spot for photographs.

Arlington Row in Bibury in the Cotswolds

Arlington Row

Then travel east to Burford (10 miles) at the south edge of the Cotswolds for the rest of the afternoon. The town of Burford was another centre of the medieval wool trade, and if you walk up to the top of the High Street you can look out over its historic buildings to the River Windrush. Burford’s got lots of interesting independent shops to explore, and you can satisfy any sugar cravings at Huffkins Bakery with their to-die-for sticky caramelised lardy cakes.

Finish your day with dinner in Kingham, five miles east of Stow. This small village is an unexpected Cotswold foodie hotspot, with two award-winning gastropubs to choose from. There’s the Michelin-starred Wild Rabbit – part of the Daylesford estate – or the more traditional-style Kingham Plough with its antique furniture and cosy log fires.

The church and Huffkins Bakery in Burford in the Cotswolds

Burford’s church and Huffkins Bakery

Sunday morning

Start your Sunday by travelling 11 miles west to Sudeley Castle (entry £12 adults, £5 for under 15s, and you must pre-book in advance). This 15th-century castle was the home of Katherine Parr, Henry VIII’s sixth and final wife, who’s buried in its church. Sudeley’s still a private residence (and a wedding venue if you’ve got deep pockets) but parts of the castle are open to the public, with exhibitions featuring Tudor costumes and Katherine Parr’s books and letters.

You can also see some of the damaged sections where the castle was ‘slighted’ at the end of the English Civil War, leaving much of it in ruins for 200 years until it was bought and restored. And there are 10 different gardens, including the Queens Garden where you can follow in the footsteps of at least four English queens, a pheasantry and kids’ adventure playground.

St Mary’s Church at Sudeley Castle in the Cotswolds

St Mary’s Church at Sudeley Castle

Then head south past Cheltenham to the Green Dragon in Cowley for lunch. If you’ve got time, stop off at Leckhampton Hill, just outside Cheltenham. It’s part of the Cotswold Way long-distance walking route and is one of my favourite viewpoints in the Cotswolds, looking out over Cheltenham, the Severn Valley and Malvern Hills. You can either park on Daisybank Road at the bottom of the hill or on Hartley Lane at the top if you don’t fancy the climb.

Carry on to the Green Dragon to refuel with a traditional Sunday roast. The pub dates back to 1643 and has bags of character with flagstone floors, beamed ceilings, hard-carved furniture and open fires. There’s also a flower-filled beer garden and a good selection of local ales.

Views from Leckhampton Hill outside Cheltenham in the Cotswolds

Views from Leckhampton Hill

Sunday afternoon

Then finish off your weekend in the Cotswolds with a walk around one of the area’s beautiful gardens. Depending on what time of year you’re visiting, there are a few places which are open for a limited season. There’s the snowdrops at Colesbourne Park in February, the Cotswold Lavender fields in Snowshill in June/July, the Confetti Flower Fields in Pershore in August or autumn colours at the Westonbirt or Batsford arboretums in September and October.

The Cotswold Lavender fields

Cotswold Lavender

Otherwise Painswick Rococo Garden is a good choice at any time of year (£9 adults, £8 seniors and £4.10 for under 16s). It’s around 10 miles south of Cowley in a tucked-away valley on the edge of the village of Painswick. The gardens were designed in the 1740s in an architectural style which was all about the frivolous and the flamboyant. So as well as plants and flowers there are follies and viewpoints, restored to their former glory based on a painting from the time.

Then pop into Painswick for tea – the village was the birthplace of the Twining tea-producing family so they know how to make a good cuppa. Painswick is a favourite spot for artists, set around St Mary’s Church which has 99 neatly trimmed yew trees in its churchyard – legend has it if a 100th is planted it never survives. Finally feast on a Champagne afternoon tea or keep it simple with scones, jam and cream at The Painswick before heading home.

Painswick Rococo Garden in the Cotswolds

Painswick Rococo Garden

Have you visited The Cotswolds? Do you have any tips to add on what to see, do and eat?

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How to spend the perfect weekend in the Cotswolds, England – a 48-hour itinerary of things to see, do, eat and drink in the Cotswolds, including pretty golden-stone villages, historic castles, country pubs, scenic viewpoints and beautiful gardens | Weekend in the Cotswolds | Cotswolds weekend | Cotswolds itinerary | Things to do in the Cotswolds | Cotswolds travel guide Green rolling hills, honey-stone villages, country pubs, grand mansions and perfectly manicured gardens – a guide to spending a weekend in the Cotswolds, England, covering what to see, do, eat and drink in a 48-hour Cotswolds itinerary | Weekend in the Cotswolds | Cotswolds weekend | Things to do in the Cotswolds | Cotswolds travel guide

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12 Comments

  • Reply
    Dylan Jones
    August 13, 2020 at 10:05 pm

    Beautiful, beautiful Cotwolds. So much to explore. I visited Arlington Row and Cotswold Lavender last summer and would have loved to have stayed longer. Broadway Tower looks like a lovely place to visit.

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      August 14, 2020 at 6:10 pm

      There’s so much to see – being at home this summer has been a great excuse to check out some new places as well as some old favourites.

  • Reply
    Meaghan
    August 14, 2020 at 12:35 am

    You’ve chosen such picturesque and interesting highlights! I went to the Southern Cotswolds recently and I’d love to see more of the North, so I’ll definitely be looking into your tips.

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      August 14, 2020 at 6:11 pm

      Thank you – I haven’t seen as much of the South Cotswolds but am walking the Cotswold Way this summer so look forward to exploring some more along the way!

  • Reply
    pam white
    August 14, 2020 at 4:36 pm

    Is it possible to hire a car to drive a couple around?

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      August 14, 2020 at 6:19 pm

      Hi Pam, yes there are a couple of different options if you don’t want to drive – you can hire a guide to arrange a custom tour or book a taxi, either for the full day (which seems to be around £20-£25 per hour) or just get taxis between each destination (which might be the most cost-effective option).

  • Reply
    Suzanne Jones
    August 14, 2020 at 9:30 pm

    You live in a beautiful part of the UK. We visited a couple of years ago but didn’t fare as well as you with the weather so our shots of Bibury and the Slaughters are a bit gloomy. A good excuse to go back and see it in the sunshine though 🙂

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      August 15, 2020 at 1:45 pm

      Yes you always do take your chances with the weather on a weekend in the UK! Been some glorious days this summer though so fingers crossed you fare better next time.

  • Reply
    Dan Hammer
    August 15, 2020 at 6:46 pm

    We had plans to visit in late March. We hoped to reschedule later this year, and now maybe fall 2021. I’ll file your report. It will help to modify our trip.

    Thanks.

  • Reply
    Alice | Girl with a saddle bag
    September 6, 2020 at 6:13 pm

    So many lovely ideas! I’ve spent a little time in the Cotswolds but there is still so much more to explore. This has given me some inspiration, I think it’s high time we headed back here for a weekend to get to know some more spots.

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      September 28, 2020 at 4:34 pm

      There’s so much to see around here – I’m sure my ‘to see’ list just gets longer and longer!

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