Travel tales

Hidden London tours: The secrets of Down Street Tube station

Hidden London tours: The secrets of Down Street Tube station

Beneath the streets of London is a hidden underground world of abandoned Tube stations and deserted tunnels, each with their own story to tell. Most of them are locked away and inaccessible, but a series of Hidden London tours run by the London Transport Museum gives you access to this secret underground world. Their mix of history, architecture and the chance to get beyond the barriers makes them one of my favourite alternative things to do in London – so I headed underground for the third time to Mayfair’s Down Street, a station whose wartime history and connection to Winston Churchill make it one of the most fascinating.

My visit was hosted by the London Transport Museum, but all views are my own.

Vintage photo of Down Street Tube station in London

Down Street in its Tube station days – photo credit London Transport Museum

The history of Down Street Tube station

Down Street opened in March 1907 as part of the new Great Northern, Piccadilly and Brompton Railway (now on the Piccadilly line). Land disputes and layout issues meant it opened late, and it never really caught up. It was too close to other stations and trains didn’t always stop. And being hidden away down a side road off Piccadilly didn’t help – surrounded by rich local residents who had their own transport and didn’t want Tube signs spoiling the neighbourhood.

With nearby Green Park and Hyde Park Corner stations being enlarged for escalators to be built and the Piccadilly line extension in 1929 putting the pressure on to close quieter stations, Down Street’s time was up. It finally closed in May 1932, destined to spend the rest of its days as a ventilation shaft for the Piccadilly Line. Well at least until the Second World War broke out, when it got a new life as the secret headquarters of the Rail Executive Committee (REC).

Inside Down Street station tunnels – with the meeting room table marked out on the floor

Inside Down Street – with the meeting room table marked out on the floor

The REC controlled Britain’s railways during the war – making sure people, weapons and supplies were where they needed to be. Made up of representatives of the four mainline railway companies plus the London’s transport board, they needed a wartime HQ that was bombproof, had a central London location and was big enough to house an underground telephone exchange. Enter Down Street, whose deep tunnels and Mayfair location made it perfect.

So in 1939 the tunnels got a makeover – converted into a network of offices and meeting rooms, with living accommodation for up to 40 staff. Bombproof, gas-proof and hidden away from prying eyes, it was seen as the safest place during the Blitz so was used by Winston Churchill as a shelter until the Cabinet War Rooms were ready (the off-ration supplies of caviar, Champagne and cigars might have helped). Once the war was over the tunnels were cleared and abandoned. So what’s left of Down Street now? I took a trip back in time to find out its secrets.

Doorway and spiral staircases leading into abandoned London Tube station

Heading underground

Hidden London’s Down Street Tube station tour

Our Down Street Tube tour started in an office building tucked down a side street in Mayfair, where we were kitted out with torches and given a safety briefing before heading to the station entrance. What was the ticket office is now the Mayfair mini-market, but if you look up it still has that distinctive Tube station look, with its arches and oxblood red tiles marking it out as one of the 50 stations designed by Leslie Green in his distinctive Arts and Crafts style.

A thick metal door takes you inside, where you can see traces of the different phases in its history all around you. There’s the original tiling from its days as a Tube station, the wartime signs and peeling yellow painted walls which were used to mark the public spaces, and the modern notices in case it’s needed as an emergency exit from the Piccadilly Line.

Office space in Down Street underground bunker

Working underground

The lifts built for the REC have long since been removed, so we headed down 122 spiral stairs to reach the main tunnel. Almost everything was stripped out at the end of the war, turning the tunnels back into ventilation shafts, but photos and documentary records have been used to piece together how the space was used. And as we walked through the different sections, squeezing our way through tight spaces into different rooms, there were echos of what it must have been like living and working underground while London battled the Blitz.

Ghosts of its past life still remain – snipped off wires hanging from ceilings, shadows where clocks hung on the walls, marks where gas-proof doors once stood, an old tin bath in a tiny partitioned bathroom, fat-stained kitchen walls where chefs would cook up off-ration steak, the button REC executives would press to summon more Champagne in the dining room. And the one thing still there in its entirety is the telephone exchange – clearly getting that back out was a bit too much of a challenge, so it sits in a corner, layered with 70 years of grime.

Narrow underground corridors and an old WWII telephone exchange

Narrow corridors and the old telephone exchange

Every tiny bit of space was made use of. When the station was converted in 1939, the tunnels were kitted out by railway carriage fitters – guided by REC secretary Gerald Cole Deacon, whose sailing experience came in handy when it came to getting the most out of the space. As well as meeting rooms, offices, a typing pool and telephone exchange, dormitories, bathroom,  kitchens and dining rooms made it into a self-contained underground settlement.

No one knew that Down Street was there, so staff would work and sleep in shifts so they didn’t draw attention to the site by coming and going. And being down there it’s amazing to think that up to 40 people lived and worked in these tunnels at a time, packed into such tiny spaces – connected by corridors just wide enough to get a tea trolley down. It was cramped, dark, stuffy and most of all noisy, with trains running day and night. And they still run right past.

Doorway to the Tube tracks at Down Street abandoned Tube station

Doorway to the tracks

Every time a train passed we were told to turn out our torches so we didn’t startle the drivers, and standing in the dark with trains rumbling past and dust and air swirling around gives you an insight into how disorientating it must have been to spend weeks at a time down there.

The trains pass just a few feet away, and when one slowed down we could see into the carriage at passengers who had no idea that we or any of the tunnels were down there. A section of the platform was left open so REC executives could signal to to picked up by passing trains – which made me wonder about those unexpected mid-tunnel stops on the Tube these days?

Original tiling and the old bathrooms on a Down Street Tube station tour

Original tiling and the old bathrooms

Although every bit of space from the two main tunnels was made use of, when Down Street was converted there were strict instructions that the emergency tunnel was to be kept clear for ventilation. But in 1941, an order from above came that ‘a certain gentleman’ had requested his own personal quarters be constructed down there, and within six weeks they were ready.

It’s thought that Churchill never actually made use of his Down Street quarters, but with the discovery of more historic records and documents, there might well still be more stories to uncover and more secrets of Down Street Tube station still hidden away underground.

Hidden London tour guide

Our guide lighting the way

The details

Down Street is one of the London Transport Museum’s Hidden London tours, which cover eight different underground sites across the city. The Down Street tour takes 90 minutes and costs £85 per person (£80 concessions),  including include a one-day pass to London Transport Museum. Hidden London tickets go on sale a few times a year and usually sell out fast, so it’s worth signing up to the mailing list to get notified when the next batch will be released.

Please note that visitors need to climb up and down 122 stairs on the tour – there’s no lift or toilets on the route and it can be dark and includes small spaces and uneven pathways. You can also take a special tour and cocktails package (£104 per person or £99 concessions) which includes a gin or whisky cocktail at nearby Flemings Hotel in Mayfair as well as a sharing food platter – not quite Churchill’s Champagne and caviar but a very good end to the tour!

Cocktails at Flemings Hotel in Mayfair, London

Cocktails at Flemings

Read more London posts

Pin it

A Hidden London tour of Down Street Tube station: Uncovering the wartime stories of Churchill's secret station on an abandoned London underground tour. #London #HiddenLondon #DownStreet #undergroundThe hidden secrets of Down Street London underground station – uncovering the wartime stories of Churchill's secret station on a Hidden London underground tour by the London Transport Museum. #London #HiddenLondon #DownStreet #underground

Previous Post Next Post

21 Comments

  • Reply
    Ferne Arfin
    January 9, 2020 at 7:59 pm

    Looks interesting but I have a feeling I might not be able to handle all those steps. how deep is it?

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 10, 2020 at 2:19 pm

      I’ve just added a bit more info about accessibility but it is 122 steps down – unfortunately the age and condition of the stations means the Hidden London tours all have step-only access.

  • Reply
    Anna
    January 9, 2020 at 8:00 pm

    I would love to visit Down Street tube station! It looks so eerie!

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 10, 2020 at 2:19 pm

      It was quite spooky wandering around with just torchlight!

  • Reply
    Annabel
    January 9, 2020 at 10:28 pm

    This sounds brilliant! I might go and sign up to the mailing list right now.

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 10, 2020 at 2:21 pm

      Definitely worth doing – I’ve got my eye on the Aldwych tour for next time!

  • Reply
    PhilandGarth
    January 10, 2020 at 2:00 pm

    This sounds great, we did an underground tour in Manchester, we’ll have to try this next time we’re in London.

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 10, 2020 at 2:22 pm

      Just looked up the Manchester tour and looks really interesting too – love seeing a different side to a city!

  • Reply
    Dylan Jones
    January 12, 2020 at 5:33 pm

    I really fancy doing one of these types of tours. Abandoned places and buildings fascinate me!

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 16, 2020 at 3:03 pm

      Something so interesting about discovering these secret spots isn’t there!

  • Reply
    Karen
    January 13, 2020 at 8:24 am

    My favourite underground tour is Mary King’s Close in Edinburgh! Eerie and fascinating!

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 16, 2020 at 3:03 pm

      I loved that tour too – so interesting!

  • Reply
    Stuart Forster
    January 22, 2020 at 10:03 am

    I love history, so this would be right up my street. Or under it.

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 27, 2020 at 3:06 pm

      Sure you’d really enjoy it then! Each tour is so different too.

  • Reply
    Darren
    January 27, 2020 at 2:05 am

    Sounds fascinating I might give this a go when I’m next in London

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 27, 2020 at 3:01 pm

      Definitely worth a trip!

  • Reply
    Emily-Ann Elliott
    January 28, 2020 at 10:30 am

    This sounds brilliant! It’s amazing to think of how much is hidden below us when we’re rushing around in London!

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 28, 2020 at 5:11 pm

      Yes there’s a whole secret underground world we don’t know about!

  • Reply
    Colin Affleck
    August 2, 2020 at 1:05 pm

    Hello
    Some time ago I finished the biography of my late mother Beryl M. Affleck (nee Dodd) 1923-2007. While not explicitly naming Down Street station in my conversations with her, I am quite certain that she was employed there during the blitz as a telephone operator or ‘telop’. Do you have any idea how I might confirm that this was so? Are there any lists or government files that might be able to help?
    Many thanks in advance.
    Colin Affleck

    • Reply
      Lucy Dodsworth
      August 11, 2020 at 11:17 am

      How interesting! It must have been a fascinating place to work. The site is managed through the London Transport Museum so they should be able to put you in touch with whoever is the best person to speak to about accessing records. Best of luck with your search.

  • Reply
    Colin Affleck
    August 11, 2020 at 1:03 pm

    Many thanks for this. I’ll get right on it. Cheers!
    Colin

Leave a Reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.