A thick layer of snow crunched underfoot and tiny snowflakes swirled around a skyline filled with Gothic church towers and castle turrets. Arriving in Tallinn was like walking into a wintry fairytale. Europe’s best preserved medieval city is a beauty at any time of year, but in the short, cold days of winter, snow adds an extra touch of magic. In summer it’s a favourite for stag parties drawn in by cheap beer and budget flights. But in Tallinn in winter its narrow cobbled streets, grand merchants houses, medieval walls and hidden courtyards are almost deserted.

Pastel-coloured merchants’ houses in the Old Town
Estonia leads the way in Europe for high-tech industries – it was the first country to allow voting online and has the most start-up companies per person anywhere in the world, including famous names like Skype. And its capital Tallinn is a modern coastal city, with trendy neighbourhoods, street art, shopping malls and office blocks. But once you enter the walls of the city’s Old Town you’re transported back in time to the 13th century, when medieval Tallinn was Hanseatic trading post known as Raval, run by a league of German merchants.

Old town buildings in Tallinn in winter
Its original buildings are so well preserved that the Old Town has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And its survival is particularly amazing when you look at the turbulent history it’s been through. Tallinn’s been invaded by the Danes, Swedes, Teutonic Knights and Russians, fought the Great Northern War and been bombed in WWII, as well as battling the Nazis, Soviets, a Great Fire and an outbreak of plague. But the Old Town is still standing proud. So layered up against the -10 temperatures, we headed into its snowy streets to explore.

Exploring the Old Town
As we walked through the Old Town streets took me a while to work out what was missing – cars. The centre of the Old Town is pedestrianised so you can walk wherever you like, and the lack of traffic left the snow a pristine white and the streets peacefully quiet. Snow was piled high along the edges of the pavements, and there were temporary barriers set up outside buildings whenever the layer of snow balanced on the rooftops or the four-foot-long icicles which dangled from the gutters threaten to detach themselves onto passers by below.
Things to do in Tallinn in winter

Festive lights strung around the Old Town streets
Old Town Hall Square
If you walk around Tallinn long enough you’re guaranteed to end up in the Old Town Hall Square. This was the heart of medieval Tallinn and started life as a market for the city’s Hanseatic merchants. They built their houses and warehouses around it, still standing and painted in pretty pastel shades of pink, blue and yellow. In December it’s filled with Christmas market stalls, but in January just the Christmas tree and festive white lights draped across the streets were left.
In the centre of the square there’s a stone with a compass rose marked on it – or at least there would’ve been if it hadn’t been covered in snow. It marks the centre of Tallinn, and if you stand on the spot you can apparently see the tops of Tallinn’s five most famous church spires.

The Old Town Square by night
Old Town walls
One of the reasons the Old Town has survived so well is the ring of walls and guard towers that stretch around it, protecting it from yet more invasion. The original medieval walls were 2.4km long and there are still 1.9km of them left standing. Only a few of the 66 original defensive towers still remain, but you can climb up to the top of some of the ones that do.
With the cold starting to bite we headed up the spiral staircase to the wooden walkway which runs along the top. This was originally where the city guards would wait, looking out for any sign of invaders. But today looking inward you get a beautiful view of the city.

The city walls and Kiek in de Kök
Kiek in de Kök
One of the biggest towers is the wonderfully named Kiek in de Kök. It’s a six-storey cannon tower turned museum that protected Tallinn during the Livonian War. It did its job well as there are nine cannonballs still embedded in the walls. The name means ‘Peep into the Kitchen’ because soldiers said they could see into the kitchens of the houses below.
Cosy cafés
As my feet started to go numb in the cold, we retreated indoors into one of the Old Town’s cafés. A lot of the cellars of the merchants’ houses have been turned into cafés and restaurants, with the domed ceilings and candlelight making them a cosy escape from Tallinn’s winter chill. Especially if you warm up with a hõõgwein – Estonian style mulled wine with fruit and nuts.

Hot hõõgwein
Toompea Hill
With the hõõgwein radiating, we headed away up onto Toompea Hill. Where the lower part of the old town was a bustling merchant town, Toompea Hill above it was home to the gentry and political elite, heavily fortified to keep commoners out. The heart of Toompea was the castle, which has been home to Estonia’s various rulers since 1229. It’s the site of the Estonian Parliament now and has changed a bit since its early days as a wooden fortress. Now there’s an ornate pink baroque building at the front with an earlier castle tucked away behind.

Looking up to Toompea Hill
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
Toompea Hill is also home to one of Tallinn’s most distinctive buildings, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. With its onion-domed roof and gold details it could be straight out of St Petersburg. It was built at the end of the 19th century when Estonia was part of the Russian Empire. It nearly didn’t survive the anti-religious Soviet Era, but was restored when Estonia became independent. The interiors are lavish, decorated with mosaics, carvings and gilt, with three altars.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
Kohtuotsa and Patkuli viewing platforms
But one of Toompea Hill’s biggest attractions isn’t its buildings but the space in between them. Tucked down narrow sidestreets are the Kohtuotsa and Patkuli viewing platforms, where a panoramic view of the Old Town opens out below you. Looking out onto Tallinn’s snow-covered roofs, red-tiled turrets and pointy-spired churches was just magical. It’s also a good spot to watch sunrise, and it’s not until 9am in Tallinn in winter you don’t need to be up too early.

Snowy rooftops and church spires from the Kohtuotsa viewpoint
Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom
Just inside the city walls, Tallinn’s Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom shows a different side to the city’s history – and it’s modern architecture is a real contrast to the medieval Old Town (as well as being a good place to warm up when the cold got a bit too biting). It tells the story of the city under five decades of occupation, with artefacts and personal stories from people who lived through life under Soviet control, which only ended in 1991.

Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom
The details
The weather in Tallinn in winter
Tallinn’s winters are cold and snowy, with only six hours of daylight in December. Average temperatures stay below freezing from December to March, with January and February being the coldest months with average lows of -5°C (23°F). It can get much colder though, getting down to -18°C at night when I visited in January. So pack layers, thermals and hand warmers.
Where to stay in Tallinn
We stayed at the Merchants House Hotel. A pair of original merchants’ houses – as you’d probably guess from the name – has been converted into a hotel with lots of original features and friendly staff, right on the edge of the Old Town Square. Rooms from €120 a night.

Snowy Tallinn
Where to eat in Tallinn
The Old Town has a spate of medieval-themed restaurants – all serving wenches and elk soup – like Olde Hansa or III Draakon which are extra cosy in winter. But for more contemporary Estonian food, our highlight was Rataskaevu 16 with its modern take on traditional local ingredients. We also liked Porgu, a cellar restaurant with a great beer selection near St Nicholas Church. And if you’re an 80s music fan don’t miss the Depeche Mode-themed DM Baar.
Pin it
This article contains affiliate links, where I get a small commission at no extra cost to you, thanks.
58 Comments
N
February 3, 2016 at 4:33 pmLooks lovely, great piece but not a fan of cold places. Hope to visit when its warmer !
Lucy
February 3, 2016 at 4:45 pmI’m not really a cold person either but it was so beautiful I think I might be a convert (as long as I have a lot of layers and a few mulled wine stops!).
jordanbeckwagner
February 3, 2016 at 5:08 pmYour photos are absolutely stunning! I went to Tallinn a few Aprils ago and it was just cold (with no snow!). How pretty does all that snow look?! Jealous!
Lucy
February 3, 2016 at 7:29 pmWe were really keeping fingers crossed that it would be snowy but there was no shortage – it snowed so much the day we left it looked like the airport might have to be closed for a while there!
Meagan: A Friend Afar
February 3, 2016 at 5:10 pmYou just changed my future European Christmas goals with just a few pictures. Nevermind Germany and Austria, I’ll be heading to Estonia! I’ve thought about Tallinn off and on, but these photos are breathtaking!
Lucy
February 3, 2016 at 7:45 pmGlad to have converted you to Tallinn in the winter! It’s definitely worth visiting.
Darlene
February 3, 2016 at 5:39 pmWhat a delightful place to visit in the winter. Picture perfect!!
Lucy
February 3, 2016 at 7:41 pmIt was lovely – and has given me a new fondness for wintery city breaks.
amaatk123
February 3, 2016 at 5:55 pmGosh. That really does look like fairyland – or even Father Christmas land. V.picturesque!
Lucy
February 3, 2016 at 7:38 pmIt was! Sorry to have missed the Christmas markets but it was nice to have it so quiet.
Travel Candy
February 3, 2016 at 6:07 pmRight, that’s it – I HAVE to go to Tallinn NOW!!!
Lucy
February 3, 2016 at 7:35 pmGet in there quick before the snow melts!
Nilda Simon
February 3, 2016 at 6:39 pmBreathtaking! Thank you for sharing your beautiful winter scenes of Tallinn. I was there in the spring of 2013. Lots of flowers and festivities!
Lucy
February 4, 2016 at 10:25 pmThanks, it was just lovely – though springtime sounds like it was beautiful too!
Bama
February 4, 2016 at 12:26 pmI have never seen photos of Tallinn in the winter as beautiful and magical as yours. This certainly inspired me to plan a trip to this part of the world.
Lucy
February 4, 2016 at 10:27 pmThank you – I loved the snow and it’s given me a real taste to get out and see more of the Baltic region now.
lexklein
February 4, 2016 at 3:19 pmBeautiful post on this lovely little city. We were lucky enough to have snow and the tail-end of the Christmas market in early January last year. Tallinn is one of the few places I think I’d honestly prefer to visit in the dead of winter. It was so cozy and, as you said, the snow and lights added a layer of charm. I will share your post with my sister to bring back great memories of our time there!
Lucy
February 4, 2016 at 10:31 pmSo glad to bring back some good memories. The snow really did make it more charming and it was lovely to see all the lights. Shame to have missed the Christmas markets but gives me an excuse to go back someday!
Shikha (whywasteannualleave)
February 5, 2016 at 8:05 amOh I’m not usually a cold person at all but I would brave it for these views – it is utterly magical! Silly question I know but what kind of shoes do you need when traipsing around the snow every day? You can tell I’ve never really been on a snow holiday! And my husband would absolutely love that 80s themed music bar! We were really hoping to go at the end of this month but sadly the flights weren’t really working out on our dates but I will definitely try and make it another time!
Lucy
February 5, 2016 at 12:29 pmFunnily enough I have a snowy weekend city break packing list coming up! I really struggled in knowing what to pack so thought it might be useful for other people too. Shame you couldn’t make it work to visit Tallinn this time but hopefully you’ll get out there sometime.
John
February 5, 2016 at 10:59 amLooks like you had the perfect weather – crisp white snow and clear blue skies. I spent a day in Tallinn in June and just got dark clouds and rain 🙁
Lucy
February 5, 2016 at 12:27 pmWe were really lucky – even though it was so cold it didn’t feel too bad because it was dry. It pelted down with snow the day we left though, they couldn’t clear the runway fast enough so we thought we might be stranded for a while (sadly not!).
Kat
February 5, 2016 at 3:09 pmOmg, it looks so picturesque, almost like a Hallmark Christmas card!
Lucy
February 6, 2016 at 11:59 amIt really was like something out of a fairytale – it’s pretty all year but the snow adds an extra something special!
Emily Ray (@emilyraylondon)
February 5, 2016 at 3:50 pmOh my gosh, Tallinn looks absolutely gorgeous! I’ve wanted to go for years, but have always debated about going in the summer or the winter. Your pictures have convinced me that winter is the time to go – especially around Christmas time. So beautiful! x
Lucy
February 6, 2016 at 12:02 pmI hear it’s lovely in summer too but I did love the snow – the Christmas markets would be great too!
abitofculture
February 5, 2016 at 11:58 pmWe went in late October and didn’t have snow, but the place was deserted so we had it almost to ourselves, apart from a few stag parties who had come from Finland on the ferry – those boys can drink!
Lucy
February 6, 2016 at 12:04 pmI hear the ferry over from Finland is a bit of a party boat – must’ve been a bit too chilly for them in January!
Madhu
February 6, 2016 at 6:48 amFabulous post Lucy. Those stunning views have me me considering a winter visit too.
Lucy
February 6, 2016 at 12:05 pmThanks Madhu, I usually head for the mountains for a winter trip but am quite a convert to the snowy city break now!
Siân
February 6, 2016 at 8:50 pmLove this post! I used to visit Tallinn often when I lived in Russia during the 1990s. I had one of the best (and maddest) nights of my life there…but that’s a whole other story! I think your photos really capture its true beauty in the snow.
Lucy
February 7, 2016 at 6:01 pmThanks so much – and sounds like a good night!
Suzanne Jones
February 7, 2016 at 12:53 pmI’ve been in spring when Tallin was very pretty but have to say it looks beautiful in the snow too. Love you picture of the square with the Christmas tree – lovely muted colours.
Lucy
February 7, 2016 at 5:59 pmIt was so nice that they still had the Christmas tree up and all the pretty white lights – made me feel quite festive!
thebritishberliner
February 8, 2016 at 6:53 am‘Love the piece Lucy!
We went to Tallinn in Estonia last year and we really enjoyed it. We went in April and both Lithuania and Latvia were snowing as we were doing the Baltic thing. By the time we got to Finland, it was as sunny as ever!
I was really impressed with Estonia that we actually went twice! 🙂
Lucy
February 8, 2016 at 5:51 pmI really enjoyed Tallinn so can’t wait to go and see more of the area now – Latvia is next but maybe Finland after that!
trolway
February 8, 2016 at 9:14 amAs one of the group who went to Tallinn, Lucy has captured the magic of the place in the snow beautifully and I loved her description of the history of Tallinn. A very grateful Mother-in-Law!!
Lucy
February 8, 2016 at 5:50 pmSo glad you enjoyed it – and here’s to lots more snowy holidays to come!
Vlad
February 8, 2016 at 9:34 pmGorgeous photos, I really need to visit Tallinn (in summer, because I don’t like cold temperatures). I see it looks quite similar to Riga, which I loved, so I’m sure I’d have a great time in Tallinn as well.
Lucy
February 10, 2016 at 1:43 pmI hear Riga is lovely too so I’m looking forward to trying it out this summer (gorgeous as winter was I do love the long sunny days!).
Heather Hall
February 10, 2016 at 7:38 amI love, love, love this city! I’ve been three times and think it might be time for another trip. Luckily I live in Riga so it’s easy to hop a bus north!
Lucy
February 10, 2016 at 1:44 pmSo nice to have to so close by. I’m going to be in Riga in August so will check out your site for some tips!
What Way Today
February 10, 2016 at 10:17 amEveryone says Tallinn is beautiful, but that’s because it’s true. It looks even better in the snow. Touristy? Yes, but still magical. We did a Baltic trip from Finland to Poland, and Tallinn is definitely a stop people should make on this route.
Lucy
February 10, 2016 at 1:45 pmDefinitely true, sometimes the touristy places are popular for good reason! Your Baltic trip sounds great – I would love to explore more of the region soon.
Marlies
February 16, 2016 at 9:36 pmTallinn looks beautiful! I will put this on my list on places to visit 🙂
Lucy
March 4, 2016 at 5:23 pmIt is stunning – well worth a trip if you can!
gaz12321
March 4, 2016 at 11:28 amLooks incredible! Another place to add to my list of place i’d love to visit but never will!
Lucy
March 4, 2016 at 5:23 pmIt’s a gorgeous place – though the travel list does seem to get ever longer!
Packing my Suitcase
March 14, 2016 at 11:09 amWhat a pretty town! I know it was cold, but the snow makes the city even prettier and photos stunning.
I can’t wait to visit Tallinn someday!
Lucy
March 14, 2016 at 11:15 pmDefinitely worth the cold to get those snowy views!
anikainumea
March 19, 2016 at 9:21 pmThese pictures made me add Tallinn to my travel list. It looks beautiful!
Lucy
March 21, 2016 at 8:09 pmIt was lovely – hope you get to make the trip someday!
Erica
August 2, 2016 at 7:52 amSo excited to go soooooon 😀
Lucy
August 5, 2016 at 3:38 pmHave an amazing time!
jnatsuchal
November 27, 2016 at 5:04 pmI just went to Tallinn in the last summer and it was obviously a different version from winter! I feel like I have to go back during Christmas because from your blog, it is so amazing!!
Lucy
November 27, 2016 at 6:30 pmIt was so beautiful in the snow! I’d like to go back in summer though and see it in the sunshine.
Tallinn
April 18, 2018 at 12:19 pmTallinn is a beautiful destination for the city trips. a must to see city in Europa
Lucy
April 20, 2018 at 2:09 pmYes it’s a wonderful place!