High above the medieval town of Kotor in Montenegro is one of the best viewpoints over the Bay of Kotor – the city walls. In the daytime the grey stone of the walls blends in with the greyish-green of the mountains behind and it can be hard to pick them out when you look up at the hillside. But when the sun goes down, Kotor’s city walls are all lit up – we had a perfect view of them from where we were staying across the bay in Muo. When the bay is calm, the lights reflect in the water of the fjord below and almost make it look like the walls form a circle.
Read more: Montenegro’s beautiful Bay of Kotor: Things to see and do
Climbing Kotor city walls

Inside the city walls
The earliest Kotor city walls were built into these steep, rocky cliffs back in the 9th century to protect the town from invaders. They were added to over the years by whoever ran the city at the time – everyone from the Byzantines to the Venetians – until the 15th century when the walls finally formed a full loop running up into the hillside above the town.
The walls are mixed in with an array of ramparts, gates, churches, forts and bastions too. And despite the onslaught of time, invasions and earthquakes over the years they are still remarkably well-preserved. Today the climb to the highest point is one of the best things to do in Kotor – though you do have to put in some effort if you want to earn those views.

Kotor’s city walls lit up at night
We started our walk around the Kotor city walls from the entrance near the North Gate and St Mary’s Church. As you go into the depths of the old town the passageways get narrower, draped with telegraph wires and lines of washing above your head. Through an archway at the bottom of the hill you’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a woman under an umbrella.
This is where you pay your entry fee (between 8am and 8pm from May to September) and from there you just follow the walls upwards. A long way upwards – the climb to the fortress at the top takes you up to 1200 metres, or around 1350 steps. We were there on a cloudy cool day perfect for walking, but in summer it can be a slow, thirsty slog to the top.

The start of the walk
There was a cruise ship docked in Kotor on the day we climbed the walls, so we followed a steady stream of people on their way to the top. The walls vary in width as they zig-zag uphill – in some places they are just a couple of metres wide and in others they widen out into a terrace.
The path is made up of rough cobblestones, so a lot of the time the easiest place to walk is along the steps at the side – and it’s a good idea to wear decent walking shoes. In late spring the banks along the path were dotted with poppies and other wildflowers, the perfect excuse for me to stop and take some photos whenever my legs started protesting about the climb.

Views down onto Kotor from the city walls
Our first destination was the Church of Our Lady of Remedy, up at 100 metres high. It was built in the 15th century and supposedly healed people of the plague (though I’d expect the climb finished a few of them off before they got up there…). Now 100 metres up doesn’t sound all that much, but it definitely started to feel it when my slow and steady pace got overtaken by a Japanese pensioner and a Spanish woman doing the climb in three-inch heels.
Once at the church we stopped to catch our breath and to take in the views down onto the red roofs of Kotor below, the cruise ship in the harbour and across the whole Bay of Kotor. But from the church you’ve got another 155 metres of climbing to get to the very top.

The Church of Our Lady of Remedy
The original Fortress of Sveti Ivan (St John) was built by the Illyrians around the 5th century, but the one there now is a comparatively modern medieval replacement where guards would watch over Kotor below. You can see why when you emerge at the top – the impenetrable mountains and views for miles around mean there’s no way any invaders could creep up on you.
The fortress is crumbling and ruined now but you can’t help but be impressed by the amount of manpower it must have taken to build it up at this height, and the panoramic views. And from the top the only way is down, to a much-deserved beer back in Kotor’s old town.

The Fortress of St John
The details
Admission to the Kotor city walls costs €8 between 8am and 8pm from May to September (technically the walls are open 24 hours a day so you could go up before or after then for free). The main entrance to the walls walk is near Kotor’s North Gate. It takes about 90 minutes to two hours to do the journey up and back down. Start early if you’re visiting during the summer as there’s not a lot of shade along the route. And take lots of water – though there are a few enterprising guys with coolboxes selling you cold drinks and beers on the way up.

Panoramic view from the fortress of Sveti Ivan
Pin it
This article contains affiliate links, where I get a small commission at no extra cost to you, thanks.
50 Comments
Andrew Petcher
June 27, 2013 at 4:41 pmNice post. It was too hot for me to attempt the climb when I visited.
I hate those cruise ships, they spoil everywhere that they drop anchor!
Lucy Dodsworth
June 28, 2013 at 4:34 pmI couldn’t imagine doing the climb in the height of summer! The cruise ships weren’t too disruptive while we were there as they weren’t in port every day, but I remember being in the Bahamas and some days there were five or six in at one time and it really overwhelmed the place.
Julie.Warburton
October 10, 2018 at 12:44 pmBut mr. Petcher they are one of the Montenegro`s way to make money? They rely on tourists to live? We are soo lucky to be able to see such a beautiful country , plus Croatia, I would live there tomorrow.
Darlene
June 27, 2013 at 6:59 pmWhat a great post. Love the pictures and the description of your walk. I lenjoy visiting old castles, churches and fortresses. Will put this one on my list for sure.
Lucy Dodsworth
June 28, 2013 at 4:32 pmThanks, me too, I always get such a great sense of history in these places, you can really feel all the people that have been there over the years before you.
aBitofCulture
June 27, 2013 at 7:28 pm€3 seems good value. Walking the walls in Dubrovnik comes to about £11.50 each!
Lucy Dodsworth
June 28, 2013 at 4:31 pmWow that’s pricey – I don’t suppose you can go in late for free either?
aBitofCulture
June 28, 2013 at 7:20 pmNo chance – nothing’s free in this town!
Bold Wandering
June 27, 2013 at 7:31 pmIs it safe to climb the wall at night to avoid the heat? Loved the photo from your hotel with the lights in the evening.
Lucy Dodsworth
June 28, 2013 at 4:29 pmIt’s quite uneven underfoot and I’m not sure how bright the lighting is on the paths so I’d be a bit cautious about going up in the dark – though in summer you can go up quite late and still have some light in the sky.
restlessjo
June 27, 2013 at 8:47 pmI am definitely falling in love with this place, Luce. I saw some photos of Kotor on another blog during the week and it looked superb. Great information in here. 🙂
Lucy Dodsworth
June 28, 2013 at 4:36 pmIt was lovely Jo, it’s definitely started me off on wanting to see more of the region too.
Lucy Dodsworth
June 28, 2013 at 4:33 pmThanks for reblogging!
The Travelbunny
June 29, 2013 at 4:04 pmI’m impressed – the walls are so steep! Are you up for a climb up the Asinelli Tower in Bologna – nerly 500 steps – might help burn of a gelato!
Lucy Dodsworth
June 29, 2013 at 6:40 pmI climbed that tower about 10 years ago when I was in Bologna briefly for the Grand Prix at Imola, it was wonky then so wonder if it’s got worse since!
h0tchocolate
June 30, 2013 at 1:17 pmWow beautiful! Btw, Kotor means dirty in Bahasa Indonesia 🙂 but this Kotor is so beautiful 🙂
Lucy Dodsworth
July 3, 2013 at 4:45 pmHow funny! No this Kotor was not dirty and very pretty!
westiedad
July 9, 2013 at 12:16 pmWow – looks spectacular. The latest addition to my list!
Lucy Dodsworth
July 14, 2013 at 9:37 pmThanks, hope you make it out there some time!
Arianwen
July 10, 2013 at 2:28 amWhat a beautiful place. I love cities made entirely from brick. I saw some of the most beautiful ones in Colombia last year.
Lucy Dodsworth
July 14, 2013 at 9:37 pmIt was such a gorgeous place – loved looking out over the fjord with a glass or two of wine in the evening!
Tricia A. Mitchell
July 14, 2013 at 6:45 pmLooks like you had a wonderful time in Kotor after all, Lucy! I found the walk across the ‘plank’ to the fortress to be a bit scary, but loved the views from the platform up near the Montenegrin flag.
I really like your nighttime shot of Kotor’s ring-like wall. Since we stayed inside the ring we never got to appreciate it from that vantage point.
Lucy Dodsworth
July 14, 2013 at 9:36 pmThat view from our apartment was what really sold it to me – as soon as I saw that I could really imagine myself sitting on the balcony overlooking it in the evening. It was a really nice spot to be in, not too far a walk from the old town.
Christine R.
July 21, 2013 at 9:58 pmGreat post. It was raining when we arrived there so we couldn’t attempt the climb. I would have loved to though but at least I can live the experience through your post 😉
Lucy Dodsworth
July 21, 2013 at 10:23 pmThank you – we almost didn’t make it either, the first few days it was really hot and sunny so we put it off til later in the week, but it poured for two days! Luckily the last day the rain held off just long enough to do the climb.
tommyshaw
August 13, 2013 at 5:08 pmGreat post, you have inspired me to go to Montenegro!
Lucy Dodsworth
August 14, 2013 at 1:08 pmThat’s great – it’s a fantastic country and really good value at the moment so get in there quick!
BlondeBrunetteTravel
August 15, 2013 at 9:32 pmMy sister and I are plotting to go to Montenegro next year and this is only going to make us want to go more, although she has dreadful asthma and could never do the climb. I love the Spanish woman doing it in 3 inch heels – what a hoot – I can see it in my mind!
Lucy Dodsworth
August 16, 2013 at 8:15 pmIt’s a great place so hope you do make it out there! Hopefully your sister will be able to make at least part of the climb, there are great views even from just a little way up.
thriftytravelmama
July 31, 2014 at 11:28 amWe climbed the fortress on our trip to Croatia this past April. I’m linking to your post because I love the shot you were able to get of the walls all lit up at night. Wow!
Lucy Dodsworth
July 31, 2014 at 2:50 pmThanks so much – that was actually the view from the balcony of the apartment we rented just outside Kotor, such a fantastic place for a glass of wine at sunset!
thriftytravelmama
July 31, 2014 at 7:07 pmDefinitely looks like it! 🙂
skates1418
February 22, 2015 at 11:52 pmWow it looks beautiful! Montenegro has been at the top of my travel list for awhile, this makes me desire going there even more! Were you able to visit any other cities in the country?
Lucy
February 24, 2015 at 2:54 pmMontenegro was fantastic! We spent most of our time in Kotor but did explore a few of the other towns around the fjord and spent a day on the coast too. I’d like to go and do a longer trip around the region sometime though and see a bit more.
Rick
May 9, 2016 at 11:00 amHi is this doable for someone scared of heights?
Lucy
May 13, 2016 at 11:22 pmThere is a low wall most of the way and it’s not too narrow, but it is pretty steep so might not be ideal if you have a bad fear of heights.
L Patterson
September 2, 2016 at 5:08 amI know one of those that commented really disliked the cruisers, and I understand his thoughts. But as one of those cruisers, I am glad to be able to get to Kotor, a place I would not normally be likely to get to otherwise. We are going in November. Unfortunately the ship gets in not long before sunset. I’m bringing a flashlight and hoping to climb at least part of if not all of the way to the top. Your post was insp!iring. Loved your picture of the ring of light. Hopefully we can get that from the ship as it departs. Thank you
Lucy
September 2, 2016 at 8:34 pmI wasn’t a cruiser in Kotor but I have been elsewhere and it’s been a great chance to see places I might not have visited otherwise. Hope you get to do the city walk – I’ve seen photos of the view of the Kotor fjords from the ships as they come in and out too and it looks beautiful. Have a lovely trip!
Joy O'Neill
January 3, 2017 at 4:20 pmThanks for your wonderful website – I really enjoy it. I hope to visit Kotor in April, during a cruise ship visit. My husband is elderly and has Parkinson’s, and I know he would not be able to climb to the top of the walls. Is there any other access via car, bus, tram, etc?
Lucy
January 4, 2017 at 9:13 pmThanks so much! I’m afraid the path is the only way up to the top of the walls (and it’s quite rough at times), but there is an amazing viewpoint looking down onto the Kotor fjord which you can access by road on the way to Lovcen National Park which might be a good alternative. Hope you have a great trip.
Joy O'Neill
January 4, 2017 at 9:27 pmThank you!
Clazz - An Orcadian Abroad
February 6, 2017 at 10:51 pmMontenegro looks so beautiful!! It’s been on my list for a while, fingers crossed this year is the year! 🙂
Lucy
February 7, 2017 at 9:44 amIt is such a gorgeous country – hope you manage to make it out there!
John
July 2, 2018 at 6:58 amFinally off to Kotor in August, after three days of hiking in the North. Let’s see if that helps or hinders our ascent haha. Will be bookmarking this!
Lucy
July 8, 2018 at 10:03 amSounds brilliant, Kotor is so lovely too – have a great time!
Andi
August 10, 2018 at 1:34 amIt’s possible to climb another way up to the top which isn’t very much visited (and so it doesn’t cost anything 😉 ) but a little bit more dangerous (altough not much more). Offers a better view in my opinion (walked the “normal” way down).
Lucy
August 10, 2018 at 10:39 amYes I’d heard there was another way – we felt a bit more comfortable on the path but one for the more adventurous to try!
Ellen
November 16, 2019 at 4:54 pmWas just there (November 2019) and it is now EUR 8 per person. Worth it!
Lucy
December 12, 2019 at 9:50 amThanks for the update!
Guy
June 23, 2020 at 8:37 amThis looks so beautiful. Can’t wait to visit.