Two sisters, two weeks, 4500km and four provinces – our leg of the ExploreCanada road trip was epic in more ways than one. Especially considering neither or us had ever been inside an RV (motorhome) before. How would this self-confessed camping-phobe cope with life on the road? Setting off from Calgary to Toronto felt like being thrown in at the deep end. But it turns out RVing is a world away from camping, and Canada’s the perfect place to try it out.
Travelling by RV gives you all the benefits of camping – beautiful landscapes, nights round the campfire, the feeling of being back to nature – but without the actual tent bit. But RVing was a new world with its special terminology (pull-throughs, shore lines, grey water). So I thought I’d put together a post for first-time RVers like me, or people who want to find out more about touring Canada by RV, where I ask the questions so you don’t have to!
Do you have to rough it?
I’m more of a budget-luxury than five-star traveller, but there are a few things that are a must wherever I’m staying. Comfortable bed, decent toilets, hot showers, space to unpack and somewhere to keep the wine cold. But my nightmares of nights spent freezing and mornings spent sweltering at 5am in a tent quickly faded. RV life is a lot more like living in a mini mobile apartment. But it was surprising how much you could pack into a small space.
Our RV was Cruise Canada’s ‘Standard’ model – 25′ long with two double beds, a toilet, shower and kitchen with gas cooker, fridge-freezer and sink. The kitchen’s well equipped so you don’t need to rely on burnt sausages on the campfire; we whipped up steaks, risottos and stir fries.
It’s a good tip to get a bigger RV than you think you need. Ours was listed as sleeping five but was perfect for two or three people. Any more than that and you’d be tripping over each other. Though you probably want to make sure you travel with someone you get on well with. You’re going to be in pretty close confines and RVing requires lots of teamwork so there’s not much room for personal space. Luckily my sister and I have spent many family holidays to France in the back of a 1970s VW camper van so we’ve got plenty of experience.
RVing in Canada is also a digital detox, getting you away from TVs, computers and phones. Internet addicts can get their fix with a portable wifi device that works off phone signal. But in large parks like Algonquin and Lake Superior the signal doesn’t stretch very far inside the park so you’ll have to have an enforced technology sabbatical. Which leaves more time to spend outside.
The evening campfire was one of my favourite trip rituals. Getting the fire going, searching for the perfect marshmallow toasting stick, making s’mores, talking about what we’d seen that day and where we were off to next. And if it rained, like it did on one night in Killarney Provincial Park, we could stay snug inside the RV, watching Les Miserables on my laptop and toasting marshmallows on the hob – you can’t do that in a tent.
Isn’t RVing just for retirees?
Canada and the US have a real RV culture. People retire, sell their houses, buy a big RV and drive south for winter and north for summer, travelling around for as long as they can. So I was expecting that as two British women in our 30s we’d be an unusual sight around the campsites. But in general the demographic of our fellow RV travellers was a lot more varied than I imagined.
There were a mix of couples, families and groups of friends, with international travellers as well as plenty of Canadians exploring their own country. Even the long-term RVers were a more mixed group than I expected. As well as retirees we also met families who were travelling with their kids before they started school, as well as people who work remotely so don’t need to have a full-time home base and can move around as they feel like.
The long-term RVers are easy to spot though – they’re the ones with doormats, potted plants and impressive array of collapsible gadgets. They’re also the ones who can help if you need a hand or don’t know how something works. When we arrived at Lake Superior Provincial Park and found we couldn’t park close enough to the electricity hookup to plug in, our neighbours lent us an extension lead. All the RVers we met were happy to share their expertise with us newbies.
One of the nicest things about RVing is that it’s much more sociable than being in a hotel. Everyone spends their time outside so it’s easy to get chatting to your neighbours. We toasted Canada Day around the campfire with our neighbour in Regina Beach and were introduced to ‘hobo pies’ (a kind of toasted jam sandwich) by the lady next door in Aaron Provincial Park.
How do I plan my Canada RV itinerary?
Where to start? Coastal drives, cross-country, mountains, National Parks – the choices are endless. It might be tempting to wing it and see where you end up, but the best campsites get booked up, especially in summer, at weekends and in popular areas like the Rockies. So it’s a good idea to plan your route and book your overnight stays in advance.
We planned to arrive into our campsites around 4pm while it was still light. That gave us time to set up the RV, light a campfire and stretch our legs with a walk around the site. It’s also recommended you don’t drive at dawn or dusk as moose and deer venture out onto the roads.
When you’re planning how long journeys will take, Google Maps tends to underestimate the time it takes in an RV. We downloaded the free Navmii Canada GPS app which was more accurate. It works offline if you don’t have phone data and you can also get it to show your nearest fuel stations. A good old-fashioned paper road map is useful too in case you can’t get a phone signal.
The quickest route from A to B is usually via the highways. But if you get off the main roads there’s more to see, so factor in plenty of time in case you spot something interesting along the way – the Roadtrippers website has some good ideas. The joy of RVing is that you can just pull over and stop and make a cup of tea or rustle up some lunch whenever you feel like it.
What facilities do campsites have?
Campsite facilities vary a lot and will depend on the location and size of site. Larger, privately run sites often have extra facilities like shops, cafés and swimming pools. You’re also likely to get a full hookup where you can connect your power, water and sewage lines from your pitch.
Most of the time we were staying in Provincial Park campgrounds which were more ‘back to nature’. There was usually a reception building where you check in and can stock up on ice and firewood. Then there were toilet and shower blocks with laundry facilities (keep a supply of ‘loonies’ – aka one dollar coins, the name comes from the birds which are pictured on them). Most had electrical hookups and filling/dumping stations for water and waste.
The facilities might be simple but the location is what makes these campsites so special. We parked up next to lakes, waterfalls and forests. But my favourite spot was at Lake Superior Provincial Park. The campsite ran along the edge of the lakeshore with just two rows of RVs surrounded by tall pine trees. Within 10 metres of our pitch was a huge sandy beach and a lake which stretched as far as you can see, with a bench that was perfect for a sunset G&T.
You’ve also got wildlife all around you. We had gophers popping up around us in Regina Beach and a raccoon who raided next door’s cool box and was chomping on a cereal bar in Killarney Provincial Park. Though you need to be careful not to leave food out in areas where there are bears around (though we never saw one despite cooking steaks on the RV hob one evening).
Is it hard to drive an RV?
I delegated this question to my sister as she was the designated driver for the trip, but despite never driving an RV before she had no trouble with it. Like any large vehicle it takes longer to get going and to stop, so leave plenty of space around you. Canadian roads are generally fairly wide and straight, and outside the towns and cities it’s not too difficult to navigate (we pretty much got on the Trans-Canada Highway in Calgary and got off it two weeks later in Toronto).
Do make a note of the RV’s width and height just in case you have to go through a small space or a low bridge. The gas tank takes a while to fill up (our record was $200 worth of fuel) and if you’re going faster, like on the long straight roads of the prairies, you’ll get through fuel quicker.
When you arrive into a campsite your pitch will either be ‘pull-through’ – where you can drive straight into it – or you’ll have to reverse in. RVs aren’t the easiest things to reverse as visibility is limited in the mirrors, so we found it easier for me to get out of the vehicle and shout out directions (seasoned RVers recommend a walkie talkie if you’re doing this a lot).
It can be harder to find somewhere to park up if you’re stopping off in towns and cities. It’s a good idea to research parking lots in advance. Some have extra-large spaces designed for RVs or otherwise be prepared to practice your parallel parking skills if you’re parking on the street.
What about the dreaded RV waste disposal?
The one thing that strikes fear into prospective RVers is emptying the toilet tank. Not something you normally have to do on holiday! But it’s really not as bad as I imagined. The RV has two waste tanks – one for grey water (from the sinks and shower) and one for black water (from the toilet). Some sites have a hookup for the sewage pipe where you can leave it connected.
But on all of our campsites you had to empty the tank at the site’s dumping station. A control panel inside the RV tells you how full the tanks are. You can go for a few days without emptying them, but it does weigh you down and being heavier means you get through more fuel. So we went for the ‘little and often’ approach and dumped our waste every day or two.
An expandable pipe pulls out from the side of the RV and connects securely into a valve in the ground. Then you pull the handle to release the black water first and then the grey to wash it through. There are a couple of things you can do to make it all a bit less unpleasant. First buy some heavy duty rubber gloves (we kept ours in a plastic bag in the storage compartment underneath the RV) and second get some tank cleaner/deodoriser tablets to make things smell a bit sweeter. You can also pay a supplement not to have to empty the tank when you return the RV to the depot, which is worth it if you’re in a bit of a hurry on the last day like we were.
What do I need to pack?
One of the bonuses of RV travel is having plenty of storage space. Inside we had a wardrobe, two sets of drawers as well as cupboards above the bed and table. There’s also a storage area underneath the RV for a folding table and chairs plus firewood and our suitcases. Once you’ve unpacked, you don’t need to pack up again until the end of your trip.
If you go out for the day and you realise you should’ve worn an extra jumper or need your coat or suncream, it’s all there with you. But if you’re flying internationally you’re not going to want to carry pillows, towels, saucepans and crockery with you (the kitchen sink is already included!).
Cruise Canada offer a couple of different equipment kits. We had a provisioning kit ($100) with cutlery, crockery, pots and pans, kettle, knives and a chopping board, plus extras like a torch and broom. There’s also a personal kit ($55 per person) with towels, a pillow and duvet. Nights can get cold so you might want to bring or buy a blanket and pack some thermal PJs – I kept a fleece and a pair of socks next to the bed so I could add extra layers in the night if I got cold.
Make sure you pack everything in tightly before you set off. Our last campsite in Algonquin Provincial Park could only be reached along a six-mile stretch of unsealed road. Within a couple of minutes of rattling along the road the wardrobe door had flown open, water bottles were shooting across the floor and the drawers had thrown half their contents out.
Even driving along an ordinary road any bumps and bends can send things flying, so make sure everything is stowed away before you set off. The RV’s crockery cupboard has dividers to keep plates and cups safe. But things do slide around the food cupboard above the dining table. So it’s a good idea to get a box to store your groceries securely so they don’t end up shaken up and you don’t get with a black eye from a falling pack of biscuits.
Being outside means you’re exposed to a few creepy crawlies. Canadian mosquitoes can be vicious, especially in the summer months, so it’s a good idea to pack mosquito repellent and bite cream, and pick up some citronella candles or mosquito coils. Cover up your arms and legs up at dusk and you can also get clothing impregnated with repellent to keep them away.
Other bits and pieces that we found useful to have were a washing line and pegs (to air out our towels and to dry clothes if you’re doing any hand washing), a grill if you want to cook outside, matches and firelighters (you can buy these along with kindling and logs in most park shops if you need them) and plenty of marshmallows for toasting over the campfire.
Where to next?
The thing with RVing is that it gets addictive. The freedom to go whenever you fancy, the convenience, the chance to dip your toes in the outdoor lifestyle without having to rough it. So the only question left is where to next? Maybe the Rockies, the Cabot Trail through Nova Scotia or the coast of Newfoundland – who knows where the road will take us?
Is there anything you’d like to know about RVing in Canada?