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The first-timer’s guide to Canada by RV motorhome

The first-timer's guide to Canada by RV motorhome

Two sisters, two weeks, 4500km, four provinces and three time zones – our leg of the ExploreCanada road trip across Canada by RV was epic in more ways than one. Especially considering neither or us had ever been inside an RV (motorhome) before. How would this self-confessed camping-phobe cope with life on the road?

Read more: A two-week Calgary to Toronto road trip itinerary

Kayaking at Killarney Provincial Park
The roadtripping sisters!

Exploring Canada by RV motorhome

Setting off from Calgary to Toronto felt like being thrown in at the deep end. But it turns out RVing is a world away from camping, and Canada’s the perfect place to try it out. Travelling by RV gives you all the benefits of camping – beautiful landscapes, nights round the campfire, the feeling of being back to nature – but without the actual tent.

But RVing was a new world with its special terminology (pull-throughs, shore lines, grey water). So I thought I’d put together a post for first-time RVers like me, or people who want to find out more about touring Canada by RV, where I ask the questions so you don’t have to!

Crossing time zones on a Canada by RV road trip
Crossing time zones

Do you have to rough it?

I’m more of a budget-luxury than five-star traveller, but there are a few things that are a must wherever I’m staying. Comfortable bed, decent toilets, hot showers, space to unpack and somewhere to keep the wine cold. But my nightmares of nights spent freezing and mornings spent sweltering at 5am in a tent quickly faded. RV life is a lot more like living in a mini mobile apartment. But it was surprising how much you could pack into a small space.

Our RV was a Cruise Canada ‘Standard’ model – 25′ long with two double beds, a toilet, shower and kitchen with gas cooker, fridge-freezer and sink. The kitchen’s well equipped so you don’t need to rely on campfire cooking; we whipped up steaks, risottos and stir fries.

Interior of the Cruise Canada Standard RV
Inside the RV

It’s a good tip to get a bigger RV than you think you need. Ours was listed as sleeping five but was perfect for two or three people. Any more than that and you’d be tripping over each other. Though you probably want to make sure you travel with someone you get on well with.

You’re going to be in pretty close confines and RVing requires lots of teamwork so there’s not much room for personal space. Luckily my sister and I have spent many family holidays to France in the back of a 1970s VW camper van so we’ve got plenty of experience.

Aaron Provincial Park in Ontario, Canada
Soaking up the views at Aaron Provincial Park

RVing in Canada is also a digital detox, getting you away from TVs, computers and phones. Internet addicts can get their fix with a portable wifi device that works off phone signal. But in large parks like Algonquin and Lake Superior the signal doesn’t stretch far into the park so you’ll have to have an enforced technology sabbatical. Leaving more time to spend outside.

The evening campfire was one of my favourite trip rituals. Getting the fire going, searching for the perfect marshmallow toasting stick, making s’mores, talking about what we’d seen that day and where we were off to next. And if it rained, like it did on one night in Killarney Provincial Park, we could stay snug inside the RV, watching Les Miserables on my laptop and toasting marshmallows on the hob – you can’t do that in a tent.

RV camspite campfire
Campfire time

Isn’t RVing just for retirees?

Canada and the US have a real RV culture. People retire, sell up, buy a big RV and drive south for winter and north for summer, travelling for as long as they can. So I was expecting that two British women in our 30s would be an unusual sight around the campsites. But in general the demographic of our fellow RV travellers was a lot more varied than I imagined.

There were a mix of couples, families and groups of friends, with international travellers as well as plenty of Canadians exploring their own country. Even the long-term RVers were a more mixed group than I expected. As well as retirees we also met families who were travelling with their kids before they started school, as well as people who work remotely so don’t need to have a full-time home base and can move around as they feel like.

Dusk at our campsite on Lake Superior
Dusk at our campsite on Lake Superior

The long-term RVers are easy to spot though – they’re the ones with doormats, potted plants and an array of collapsible gadgets. They’re also the ones who can help if you need a hand or don’t know how something works. When we arrived at Lake Superior and found we couldn’t park close enough to the electricity hookup to plug in, our neighbours lent us an extension lead. All the RVers we met were happy to share their expertise with us newbies.

One of the nicest things about RVing is it’s much more sociable than a hotel. Everyone spends their time outside so it’s easy to get chatting to your neighbours. We toasted Canada Day around the campfire with our neighbour in Regina Beach and were introduced to ‘hobo pies’ (a kind of toasted jam sandwich) by the lady next door in Aaron Provincial Park.

Celebrating Canada Day on RV site in Regina Beach
Celebrating Canada Day

How do I plan my Canada RV itinerary?

Where to start? Coastal drives, cross-country, mountains, National Parks – the choices are endless. It might be tempting to wing it and see where you end up, but the best campsites get booked up, especially at weekends, in popular areas like the Rockies and in summer in Canada. So it’s a good idea to plan your route and book your overnight stays in advance.

We planned to arrive into our campsites around 4pm while it was still light. That gave us time to set up the RV, light a campfire and stretch our legs with a walk around the site. It’s also recommended you don’t drive at dawn or dusk as moose and deer venture onto the roads.

RV on Highway 1 in Canada crossing over into Saskatchewan
Crossing over into Saskatchewan

When you’re planning how long journeys will take, Google Maps tends to underestimate the time it takes to travel in an RV. We downloaded the free Navmii Canada GPS app which we found was more accurate. It works offline if you don’t have phone data and you can also get it to show you the nearest fuel stations – helpful when you’re in the middle of nowhere. A good old-fashioned paper road map is useful too in case you can’t get a phone signal.

The quickest route from A to B is usually via the highway. But if you get off the main roads there’s more to see, so factor in plenty of time in case you spot something interesting along the way – the Roadtrippers website has some good ideas. The joy of RVing is you can just pull over and stop and make a cup of tea or rustle up some lunch when you feel like it.

Gorgeous views in the Muskoka Lakes
Gorgeous views in the Muskoka Lakes

What facilities do campsites have?

Canadian campsite facilities vary a lot depending on the location and size of the site – our experiences camping in Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba and Ontario ranged from simple forest pitches to full holiday complexes. The larger, privately run sites often have extra facilities like shops, cafés and swimming pools. You’re also likely to get a full hookup where you can connect your power, water and sewage lines directly from your pitch.

Most of the time we stayed in Provincial Park campgrounds which were more ‘back to nature’. There was usually a reception building where you check in and can stock up on ice and firewood. Then there were toilet and shower blocks with laundry facilities (keep a supply of ‘loonies’ – aka one dollar coins, the name comes from the birds which are pictured on them). Most had electrical hookups and filling/dumping stations for water and waste.

Drinks on the beach at Lake Superior Provincial Park
G&Ts by Lake Superior

The facilities might be simple but the location is what makes these campsites so special. We parked up next to lakes, waterfalls and forests. But my favourite spot was at Lake Superior Provincial Park. The campsite ran along the edge of the lakeshore with just two rows of RVs surrounded by tall pine trees. Within 10 metres of our pitch was a huge sandy beach and a lake which stretched as far as you can see, with a bench perfect for a sunset G&T.

You’ve also got wildlife all around you. We had gophers popping up in Regina Beach and a raccoon who raided next door’s cool box and was chomping on a cereal bar in Killarney Provincial Park. Though you need to be careful not to leave food out in areas where there are bears around (though we never saw one despite cooking steaks on the RV hob one evening).

Raccon in Killarney Provincial Park
Cheeky raccoon

Is it hard to drive an RV?

I delegated this question to my sister as she was the designated driver for the trip, but despite never having driven an RV before she had no trouble with it. Like any large vehicle it takes longer to get going and to stop, so leave plenty of space around you.

Canadian roads are generally fairly wide and straight, and outside the towns and cities it’s not too difficult to navigate (we pretty much got on the Trans-Canada Highway in Calgary and got off it two weeks later in Toronto).

Do make a note of the RV’s width and height just in case you have to go through a small space or low bridge. The gas tank takes a while to fill up (our record was $200 worth of fuel) and if you’re going faster, like on the long straight prairie roads, you get through fuel quicker.

Driving across Canada by RV
Following a Canada Pacific train

When you arrive into a campsite your pitch will either be ‘pull-through’ – where you can drive straight in – or you’ll have to reverse in. RVs aren’t the easiest things to reverse as visibility is limited in the mirrors, so we found it easier for me to get out of the vehicle and shout out directions (seasoned RVers recommend a walkie talkie if you’re doing this a lot).

It can be hard to find somewhere to park up if you’re stopping off in towns and cities. It’s a good idea to research parking lots in advance. Some have extra-large spaces designed for RVs or otherwise be prepared to practice your parallel parking skills if parking on the street.

Views of the road to Lake Superior
Views from the road

What about the dreaded RV waste disposal?

The one thing that strikes fear into prospective RVers is emptying the toilet tank. Not something you normally have to do when you’re on holiday! But it’s really not as bad as I imagined. The RV has two separate waste tanks – one for grey water (from the sinks and shower) and one for black water (from the toilet).

Some sites have a hookup for the sewage pipe where you can leave it connected. But on all of our campsites you had to empty the tank at the site’s dumping station. A control panel inside the RV tells you how full the tanks are. You can go for a few days without emptying them, but it does weigh you down and being heavier means you get through more fuel. So we went for the ‘little and often’ approach and dumped our waste every day or two.

Cruise Canada RV overlooking Lake Superior
Rocky the RV

An expandable pipe pulls out from the side of the RV and connects securely into a valve in the ground. Then you pull the handle to release the black water first and then the grey to wash it through. There are a couple of things you can do to make it all a bit less unpleasant.

First buy some heavy duty rubber gloves (we kept ours in a plastic bag in the storage compartment under the RV) and second get some tank cleaner/deodoriser tablets to make things smell a bit sweeter. You can also pay a supplement not to have to empty the tank when you return the RV to the depot, which is worth it if you’re in a hurry on the last day.

Hiking in Algonquin Provincial Park
Hiking in Algonquin Provincial Park

What do I need to pack?

One of the bonuses of exploring Canada by RV is having plenty of storage space, so you’ve got room to pack the RV or motorhome accessories to help make your trip easier. We had a wardrobe, two sets of drawers and cupboards above the bed and table. There’s also a storage area underneath the RV for a folding table and chairs plus firewood and suitcases. Once you’ve unpacked, you don’t need to pack up again until the end of your trip.

If you go out for the day and realise you should’ve worn an extra jumper or need a coat or suncream, it’s all there with you. But if you’re flying internationally you’re not going to want to carry pillows, towels, saucepans and crockery with you (the kitchen sink is included!).

Crossing the Manitoba provincial line in an RV
Manitoba provincial line

Cruise Canada offer a couple of different equipment kits. We had a provisioning kit ($100) with cutlery, crockery, pots and pans, kettle, knives and a chopping board, plus extras like a torch and broom. There’s also a personal kit ($55 per person) with towels, a pillow and duvet.

Nights can get cold so you might want to bring or buy a blanket and pack some thermal pyjamas – I kept a fleece and a pair of socks next to the bed so I could add extra layers if I got cold in the middle of the night. The RV does also have heating if things get really chilly.

Breakfast at Lake Superior
Breakfast at Lake Superior

Make sure you pack everything in tightly before you set off. Our last campsite in Algonquin Provincial Park could only be reached along a six-mile stretch of unsealed road. Within a couple of minutes of rattling along the road the wardrobe door had flown open, water bottles were shooting across the floor and the drawers had thrown half their contents out.

Even driving along an ordinary road any bumps and bends can send things flying, so make sure everything is stowed away before you set off. The RV’s crockery cupboard has dividers to keep plates and cups safe. But things do slide around the food cupboard above the dining table. So it’s a good idea to get a box to store your groceries securely so they don’t end up shaken up and you don’t get with a black eye from a falling pack of biscuits.

RV on an unsealed road in the Canadian Prairies
Getting a bit bumpy on an unsealed road

Being outside means you’re exposed to a few creepy crawlies. Canadian mosquitoes can be vicious, especially in the summer, so it’s a good idea to pack mosquito repellent* and bite cream, and pick up citronella candles or mosquito coils*. Cover up your arms and legs up at dusk and you can also get clothing impregnated with repellent to keep them away.

Other bits and pieces we found useful to have were a washing line and pegs* (to air towels and dry clothes if you’re doing any hand washing), a grill if you want to cook outside, matches and firelighters (you can buy these along with kindling and logs in most park shops if you need them) and plenty of marshmallows for toasting over the campfire.

Toasting marshmallows on the campfire on a RV trip across Canada
Campfire evenings

Where to next?

The thing with RVing is that it gets addictive. The freedom to go whenever you fancy, the convenience, the chance to dip your toes in the outdoor lifestyle without having to rough it. So the only question left is where to next? Maybe the Rockies, the Cabot Trail through Nova Scotia or the coast of Newfoundland – who knows where the road will take us?

Is there anything else you’d like to know about exploring Canada by RV?

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*This article contains affiliate links where I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. I visited Canada as a guest of Destination Canada as part of a Travelator Media campaign.

Tom

Tuesday 25th of May 2021

Hi Lucy, this is all very useful, thank you. We're looking at having a couple of weeks around Canada in an RV next summer, mostly on the east coast. What sort of distances would you say are realistic? I'm trying to come up with an itinerary that balances getting round as much as possible with having time to stop and enjoy places, rather than just driving 12 hours a day.

Agnes

Friday 12th of March 2021

This is such a wonderful read!! Lot's of great advice! My Fiance and I are planning on doing a cross-Canada RVing trip for our Honeymoon in October. We'll have about 4 weeks to plan for! And you answered all of our questions we've been worrying about! We feel much more confident in our decision to go for it!

Lucy Dodsworth

Wednesday 24th of March 2021

That's great to hear – hope you have a fantastic honeymoon!

Marcel Gassner

Wednesday 8th of July 2020

Awesome story and pictures, Lucy!

Thank you so much for doing all that work and then sharing it with us.

I know how much work it is as I just did the same at a blog I just published.

My blog isn't nearly as polished as yours but I would love it if you could check it out.

Lucy Dodsworth

Thursday 23rd of July 2020

Thanks – and best of luck with your blog too!

Dennis Pratt

Tuesday 18th of February 2020

We just spent a month in Newfoundland over and back via Port Aux Basques because ti was the shortest (least expensive) ferry trip. On retrospect next time I will take the longer route to Placentia and cross the island once only. The cost in extra fuel would have matched the extra cost of the longer ferry ride but would have allowed extra time along the way. We had the greatest time ever people and places were outstanding. Saw iceburgs, whales, moose right up to the side of the truck. Sat in sunny Dildo at the Dildo brewery drinking Dildo beer. Next time the wife and I would like to spend a summer traveling around the island with a cross over to Labrador and then the Trans Labrador Highway. Keep on going and take your time, see the sights. The wife and I travel in an F250 with an Artic Fox 811 truck camper towing a 12 ft enclosed trailer with all the toys.

Lucy

Tuesday 25th of February 2020

Sounds fabulous, Newfoundland is one part of Canada I've been longing to visit.

Choudhari

Saturday 8th of February 2020

Beautiful article with great pictures. Hace always dreamed of traveling by RV

Lucy

Monday 10th of February 2020

Thanks, yes it's a great way to explore Canada!