Travel tales

On the Luce in 2019

On the Luce in 2019

As we reach the end of the year, looking back at the last 12 months’ travels has become a bit of an annual tradition. But if there was ever a year where nothing went to plan, it was 2019! It’s been one of my toughest years, with personal troubles knocking me for six and curtailing my travels. Dealing with a degree and a divorce at the same time meant 2019 was less about big trips and more about mini escapes and little moments in among the stress. So instead of my usual month-by-month review (because there are a couple I’d happily forget!), I’ve picked 19 of my best travel-related moments of the year, from cruising to Alaskan glaciers to appearing on TV.

Views of Jasper National Park in Canada from the SkyTram

Looking out over Jasper National Park in Canada

1. Pink Arctic Circle sunrises

When I booked a trip to Lapland at the start of January, the main thing I was worried about (apart from the cold) was how dark it would be. In the depths of winter there are less than three hours of daylight, with the sun rising at 11am and setting at 1.45pm. But it turned out it didn’t just get dark at 2pm, and instead we got hours of candy pink and gold sunrises and sunsets. It’s the one trip I’ve done where I managed to get up for sunrise every morning – and the colours were almost enough to make up for not managing to see the Northern Lights!

Read more: A winter wonderland trip to Rovaniemi, Finnish Lapland

Sunrise in Rovaniemi, Finland

Rovaniemi’s sunrise skies

2. Husky sledding in Lapland

Top of my Lapland must-do list was taking a ride in a husky sled, and it was even better in real life than it looks. Those Siberian Huskies can seriously move, and speeding through the snowy forests was a real adrenaline rush, even if it was all over a bit too fast. Though we did still get to stroke the dogs and see some of the gorgeously fluffy puppies at the Husky Park.

Read more: What does it cost? 4 days in Lapland budget breakdown

A winter wonderland trip to Rovaniemi, Finnish Lapland

Husky sledding

3. A cosy winter weekend in the Cotswolds

I might live right on the edge of the Cotswolds, but there’s still so much of the area I haven’t seen. If you’re looking for a cosy country pub then it’s one of the best places to go, and I tried one of them out back in January at The George Inn in Barford. The weather was grey and chilly but it was the perfect hideout – one of those pubs you’d love to have as your local, where I ended up drinking red wine by the fire and chatting to random people until late into the night.

Read more: A weekend in The Cotswolds: A 48-hour itinerary

A cosy winter weekend in the Cotswolds

Warming up by the fire

4. A boat trip on Lake Como

After finishing the last of my uni classes I was in desperate need of a fix of sunshine, prosecco and gelato, so took a train trip down to stunning Lake Como in Italy for a lazy week with my mum. We took the funicular to hillside Brunate, walked the lakeside path and took a day trip to Milan by train, but this part of the world is all about the water, so we hopped onto one of the ferries to explore a string of pretty villages, luxurious palazzos and waterfront cafés.

Read more: La Dolce Vita in the Italian Lakes: Visiting Como, Italy

Basin of Como boat trip on Lake Como with Navigazione Laghi

A boat tour around Lake Como

5. A bloggers’ break at Log House Holidays

Most of the time travel blogging involves more time in front of a laptop than actual travelling – photo editing, writing posts, social media scheduling. Which is why it’s great to have people to bounce ideas off (and moan about Instagram engagement to). My blogging support group is the fabulous Top UK Travel Bloggers ladies, and this spring we all got together in real life for a few days of planning, chatting and hot-tubbing in one of my favourite places – beautiful Log House Holidays in the Cotswolds – coming away full of inspiration and ideas for the future.

Read more: Log house luxury in the Cotswolds

Log House Holidays in the Cotswolds

Hot-tubbing at Log House Holidays

6. Road tripping the Scottish Highlands

The best thing about studying in Scotland over the last year and a half has been how easy it’s made it for me to explore the country, but somehow I’d still managed to miss out some of the country’s best-known spots. So when my sister and cousin decided to walk the West Highland Way, I tagged along as the support team for a Scottish Highland road trip which took in Loch Lomond, Glencoe and Fort William, with whisky distilleries, waterfalls, boat trips, famous train journeys and the utterly gorgeous, James Bond-approved Glen Etive drive along the way.

Read more: Highland highlights: 13 things to do in Fort William and Glencoe

The Jacobite steam train crosses the Glenfinnan Viaduct

The Jacobite steam train on the Glenfinnan Viaduct

7. Talking carbon offsetting on TV and radio

Over the last year I’ve been studying sustainable tourism and trying to bring some of what I’ve learnt into the blog – and one post which really took off was about carbon offsetting your flights. And when the BBC were filming a segment about carbon offsets for BBC Breakfast they invited me to Bristol Airport to be interviewed. I didn’t think much more about it until three weeks later when I was all over the news one morning, leading to five more (very nerve-wracking) live radio interviews that day. And since then I’ve been back on air talking about mini toiletry bottles and working holiday visas. Totally out of my comfort zone, but one of the best things I’ve done!

Read more: The traveller’s guide to carbon offsetting your flights

BBC Breakfast television

On BBC Breakfast TV

8. Rediscovering my hometown

Much as I love travel, when my life was turned upside down this spring the only place I wanted to be was at home. And not heading away multiple times a month gave me the chance to rediscover what I love about my hometown. It’s a great time for Cheltenham, which has just been rebranded as ‘The Festival Town’ with a whole range of new events. I’ve binged on talks at the Literature Festival, taken part in a Chinese tea ceremony, become a Park Run convert and spent lots of time with friends and family – and plan to keep mixing up home and travel in 2020.

Read more: A weekend in Cheltenham: A 48-hour itinerary

The Pittville Pump Room and park in Cheltenham

Cheltenham’s Pittville Pump Room

9. A Fringe weekend in Edinburgh

From my first home to my second home – Edinburgh. With my sister living in the Scottish capital I usually make a few trips up there each year, and this year one of them coincided with the full craziness of August’s Fringe Festival. I love the complete randomness of the events on around the city at this time of year. There’s every type of show or event you can possibly think of, and we did a pick and mix of genres, from New Orleans jazz and feminist podcast recordings to food festivals and cocktails in a Stranger Things themed pop up bar.

Read more: Visiting Edinburgh on a budget

The Edinburgh Fringe festival

The Edinburgh Fringe

10. The perfect day at the Hubbard Glacier

I’m a complete geography geek, so Alaska’s mountains and glaciers have been on my travel wishlist for years, and this autumn I finally made it out there for a cruise along the coast. The one thing you take your chance on in Alaska is the weather though, so after sailing up a misty Inside Passage we didn’t have the highest of hopes for our day at the Hubbard Glacier. But the conditions couldn’t have been more perfect – clear skies, calm seas and this dazzling array of blue, turquoise and white – so good even the crew were up on deck taking photos and the captain got the ship closer than it had ever been to do a full 360-degree spin.

Read more: How to choose the perfect Alaska cruise

Cruise ship sailing to the Hubbard Glacier

Sailing to the Hubbard Glacier

11. Exploring colourful Ketchikan

I’d never even heard of Ketchikan before my Alaskan cruise but loved this quirky, colourful old town. The wooden boardwalk houses were built over the water in the 1920s when the street was a hub for bootleggers and brothels catering for the salmon fishermen (it was the town “where men and fish come upstream to spawn”!). They’re more respectable shops or restaurants these days, but we got a glimpse of their glory days in former madam Dolly’s House, with a trapdoor for bootlegged whisky from Canada and a backdoor from the sneaky ‘Married Man’s Trail’.

Read more: Discovering Alaska’s quirky side at Creek Street, Ketchikan

Colourful Ketchikan's Creek Street

Colourful Ketchikan’s Creek Street

12. Taking the train across Canada

I can never resist a train ride, and the trip across the Rockies from Vancouver is one of the best around – but also one of the priciest. So with the Rocky Mountaineer out of my budget for now it was onto plan B and a trip on the regular Via Rail train. You might have to sleep in your seat and the catering is a bit more train buffet than silver service, but the views more than make up for it – lakes, mountains, forests and deer alongside the tracks when I woke up at 6.30am.

Read more: Vancouver to Jasper by train: The Rockies on a budget with VIA Rail

Vancouver to Jasper by train: The Rockies on a budget with VIA Rail

Vancouver to Jasper by train

13. An ice explorer breakdown on the Columbia Icefields

The Columbia Icefield is the biggest ice mass in the Rockies, and you can get right onto the surface of the Athabasca Glacier on board an ice explorer. These $1.3 million giant pieces of kit are designed for extreme slopes and icy terrain. Though we managed to pick one that broke down… halfway up the steepest unsealed road in North America. After hanging around at a 45-degree angle – with a lot of reassurance that the brakes were firmly on – we carefully reversed down to the bottom and were collected by a rescue bus for a bit of extra drama on the ice.

Read more: Columbia Icefields tour: A glacier walk in the Canadian Rockies

Columbia Icefields

On the Columbia Icefields

14. Discovering a secret lake in the Rockies

I’ve seen some pretty amazing scenery in Canada, but the Rockies are another level, and lakes Louise, Peyto, Moraine are justifiably famous. But one of my unexpected highlights was a lake pretty much no-one will have heard of. Kinky Lake (worth visiting just for the name) is just outside Jasper’s National Park boundary, down an unsealed road which to be honest we only really found because we got lost. But with its still waters, mountain reflections and perfectly timed boatman (the only other person for miles around) it was straight off a postcard.

Reflections on Kinky Lake

Kinky Lake

15. The Settle to Carlisle Railway in steam train style

My second scenic train trip of the year was in slightly more luxurious vintage style, as my dad and I headed back to the Golden Age of steam travel on a journey along the Settle to Carlisle Railway. Our steam engine Leander was a bit of a celebrity, with crowds gathered to take photos of us along the route. And our on-board Pullman Style dining – starting with a Champagne breakfast and ending up with a four-course dinner cooked and served on board in our comfortable armchairs – was a major step up from my Scotland commute.

Read more: Steam Dreams: A steam train day trip on the Settle to Carlisle Railway

Steam Dreams: The Settle to Carlisle railway by steam train

The Settle to Carlisle railway by steam train

16. Autumn days in the Isle of Skye

Next in my list of Scottish oversights was the Isle of Skye. It’s probably Scotland’s most famous and visited island, but our base in the far north of Skye has kept the remote and peaceful feel. We road tripped around the island, from pretty Portree to the dramatic rock formations and quirky craft shops in the north-east of the island. And even the famous Fairy Pools weren’t too crowded on a drizzly autumn afternoon, with beautiful golden colours among the mist.

The Fairy Pools on the Isle of Skye, Scotland

The Fairy Pools in Skye

17. A trip back in time in the Wye Valley

I don’t do a lot of press trips, but when I was invited join a tour through the Wye Valley I couldn’t resist. I grew up in Ross-on-Wye at the start of the route and each of the stops featured somewhere in my history – from school trips to Goodrich Castle and walks around Symond’s Yat to ciders by the riverside at the Hope and Anchor in Ross. As well as my own footsteps we were following those of William Gilpin, whose book ‘Observations on the River Wye’ 250 years ago was one of the first ever travel guides – wonder what he’d make of travel blogging?

Read more: Exploring the Wye Valley: In the footsteps of Gilpin’s Wye Tour

Ross-on-Wye Old Book Shop

Ross-on-Wye

18. Uncovering Hidden London at Down Street station

London has plenty of underground secrets, and this winter I took my third Hidden London tour to Down Street. The station was only used from 1907 to 1932, but had a second life as the secret base for the Railway Executive Committee in WWII. 40 people lived and worked in the tunnels which had meeting rooms, bedrooms, bathrooms and kitchens serving off-ration caviar and Champagne. No wonder Winston Churchill liked to use it as a shelter. The station was stripped out after the war and is now spookily abandoned, but Piccadilly line trains still run right past the old platforms, with commuters never knowing this secret world is there.

Read more: Hidden London tours: The secrets of Down Street Tube station

Down Street Hidden London underground tour

Down Street tour

19. Finishing my Master’s degree!

But this year’s biggest highlight has to be finishing my MSc Tourism, Heritage and Sustainability at the University of Glasgow. Getting back into studying, writing essays and commuting to Dumfries and back every week weren’t always the easiest, but I learnt so much and developed a real passion for sustainable travel that’s going to have a huge impact on my 2020 travels. I finally handed in my dissertation before Christmas – looking at the influence of Instagram on overtourism at natural sites – and fingers crossed I’ll be graduating next summer.

Read more: On the trail of Robert Burns in Dumfries, Scotland

On the trail of Robert Burns in Dumfries, Scotland

Dumfries in the (rare) sunshine

So that was my 2019! What were your biggest highlights of the last year?

Read more annual reviews

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Travel highlights On the Luce in 2019, including an Alaska cruise, the Canadian Rockies, snowy Lapland, Scotland's highlands and islands, and much more. #annualreview #ontheluce

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14 Comments

  • Reply
    Darlene Foster
    January 2, 2020 at 6:33 pm

    Sounds like an eventful year, in spite of the downer stuff. I love Ketchikan and I’m pleased you enjoyed it too. All the best for 2020.

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 2, 2020 at 9:28 pm

      Thanks Darlene, yes there were some fab bits along the way – hope you have a great year to come too!

  • Reply
    Diana
    January 2, 2020 at 6:51 pm

    Still sounds like a pretty good travel year! I’d be really interested in reading your dissertation if it’s published somewhere… such a relevant topic nowadays. Congrats on finishing it!

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 2, 2020 at 9:29 pm

      Thank you, I’ll try to write it up for the blog sometime too, such an interesting topic, though I was very glad to have it submitted!

  • Reply
    Brogan
    January 2, 2020 at 10:35 pm

    Hey! I got to point 4 and had to comment – your year in travel (despite some heartache) sounds amazing! I’m originally from Scotland although live in Melbourne and was glad to see some gorgeous Scottish scenery featured in there ;)! Congrats on your dissertation!

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 6, 2020 at 9:28 pm

      Thank you! I absolutely love Scotland and have lots of plans to explore more this year.

  • Reply
    Ben Zabulis
    January 4, 2020 at 6:56 am

    An enjoyable year Lucy and we enjoyed reading about it too. We particularly enjoyed the railway trips which we have forwarded to friends planning similar. Good luck with the MSc result and all the very best for 2020 !

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 6, 2020 at 9:32 pm

      Thank you! There’ll definitely be a lot more train content coming up next year too, I’ve got some great trips in the pipeline.

  • Reply
    Bama
    January 5, 2020 at 1:59 am

    The masters program you took is similar with the one I was interested in nine years ago. At that time I applied for an Erasmus Mundus scholarship where if I got accepted I would have studied in universities in Denmark and two other European countries — quite a perk for an Indonesian like me who has to provide a long list of documents to get a Schengen visa. I didn’t get the scholarship in the end, and now my life has taken me to a completely different path. Wishing you a better and more fulfilling year ahead, Lucy!

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 6, 2020 at 9:33 pm

      Thanks so much – and have a great year too. It was a really interesting course and I learnt so much, will be quite glad to focus on the blog and travel this year though!

  • Reply
    Vlad
    January 7, 2020 at 11:39 am

    What an amazing year you had and gorgeous photos as always! I have to go back and re-read your Como posts, as I’ll go there this year 😀

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 10, 2020 at 12:47 pm

      Such a beautiful place – looks forward to seeing hoe you get on!

  • Reply
    Bridget Pigott
    January 11, 2020 at 8:52 am

    This is such an inspiring list of places to inspire travel in 2020! Great photos all year, too.

    • Reply
      Lucy
      January 16, 2020 at 3:02 pm

      Thanks Bridget, hope you have a great year too!

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